The SOMM Journal

February / March 2018

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{ SOMMjournal.com } 37 Awash in Ebullience at Ca' del Bosco If you've seen one sparkling wine facility, you've seen 'em all, right? Not so in the case of producer Ca' del Bosco in the Lombardia region, where we witnessed the art of precision winemaking in full effect. We know Franciacorta is made in metodo classico typi - cally with Pinot Nero, Bianco, and Chardonnay, but Ca' del Bosco goes a step further and washes the grapes prior to fermentation. One of the most rewarding aspects of these Enrichment Trips is the element of surprise—you never know what you're going to discover. Our jet lag was now officially put to rest. It All Comes Together in Sardegna Having never traveled to Sardegna, I was particularly excited for this part of the trip. Our visit to Cantina Mesa winery, led by the irrepressible Luca Fontana and his marvelous wife, Maggie, gave us a sense of the true character of Sardegnan wines. The Carigñano grown here is very special—spicy, salty, and full of life—but it's the Vermentino that shines, particularly when paired with the briny brilliance of Mediterranean shellfish. The group replenished our energy over layers of panne fratau, mountains of local pork, and shots of Mirto, the island's myrtle plant–based liqueur. We were now properly prepped for our mainland campaign. Despite the early-early mornings and late-late nights, it quickly became apparent there would be no mid-trip slump. We all pushed each other to stay engaged, ask great questions, and con - tinue probing for more opportunities to learn. From Barolo to Treviso, Then Farewell We could not have anticipated the magic of Marchesi di Barolo and the Abbona family, who are known for their ability to make visitors feel at ease. Over lunch with the group, Valentina Abbona discussed the simple distinction that sets the commune of Barolo apart from its neighbors: its position, ensconced in the surround - ing hills. We then returned to the Mediterranean—specifically to the convergence of the sea and the Appennines, which makes the Ligurian climate perfect for Vermentino. Rather than elaborate, we'll file it under "You Had to Be There." From there, it was on to Trento and the science of autolysis at Ferrari, where we dined like royalty at Locanda Margon. It was in the Veneto that we were honored to be in august presence of An - drea Sartori, who not only runs his family's estate and Italia del Vino, but also the Valpolicella consorzio (consortium). What a force! Our final day presented a fascinating contrast in economies of scale at two Friuli properties: large-scale agriculture at Ca'Bolani and the intimacy of Ronchi di Manzano, which is run by Roberta Borghesi and her daughters Lisa and Nicole. On our final night, we strolled the charming streets of Treviso in search of gelato and pizza. We said our goodbyes over scoops and slices, leaving with a sense of achievement in our quest to learn more about Italian wine, ourselves, and one another on this incredible journey. James Lechner is an Advanced Sommelier and a member of the SommFoundation Board of Directors. The vineyards of Ronchi di Manzano in the Friuli region of Italy. Enrichment Trip participants pictured during our visit to Ronchi di Manzano. From left to right, back row: Brian McClure, Faye Cardwell, Micah Clark, James Lechner, and Lindsay Thomas. From left to right, front row: Alexandra Thomas, Alexis Davis, and Alexandra Stang.

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