The Tasting Panel magazine

November 2012

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FROM THE EDITOR Wine's Golden Age: A World View P RAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC – There was a time not too long ago when wine meant something from France and very little else. People thought they were sophisticated because they could say "Chablis" and knew that it was a white wine. Then things started getting complicated. California wines popped into the public consciousness and people were faced with the neces- sity of mastering such arcane terms as "Cabernet Sauvignon" and "Chardonnay." No sooner had they done that than wines from Germany, Spain, Portugal and Italy appeared, followed quickly by Southern Hemisphere bottlings from Australia, South Africa, Chile and, eventu- ally, New Zealand and Argentina. Soon enough those on the cutting edge were able to use "Malbec," "Shiraz" and "Pinotage" in a conversational sentence, without stumbling. (Most of them still can't say "Carmenère" correctly, however.) But there's no reason to be smug and self-satisfied in one's interna- tional wine knowledge. This year at the San Francisco International Wine Competition, wines were entered from 30 different countries. That's 17 more than those mentioned above. Clearly, vintners from these countries thought their wines were good enough to win medals in head-to-head competition with products from the more widely-known producing regions. Sitting here at a café on a sunny October afternoon—after quenching my thirst with a stunning glass of draft Pilsner Urquell—the waitress sug- gests a cool glass of spicy Frankovka grown here in the Czech Republic, in the Moravian region. Later I discovered that this Pinot-like variety is the same as the Blaufränkisch grown in Austria and several other central European countries. (In Washington State it is known as Lemberger.) The Czech Republic entered more than 100 wines in this year's San Francisco Competition. They won a number of medals, including a "Best in Show." My point is that we may not be as wine-sophisticated as we think. Great wines are being made in Central Europe—Bulgaria, Hungary, Moldava, Romania, Croatia, Slovenia and, of course, Austria, among others. And what about Greece? Sure, the grape varieties are difficult to pronounce, but the wines are delicious and present whole new flavor profiles. And don't overlook Turkey and Israel either. When you are traveling, don't always go for the Italian wine you know; try the local product. You may make a brilliant discovery. At the very least, you will broaden your perspective and probably save money in the bargain. It is often said that we are in wine's golden age. True, but be aware that this remarkable period is universal—not limited to a few well-known countries. Advances in technology and viticulture are happening all over the world—and wines from everywhere are worthy of your attention. 4 / the tasting panel / november 2012 PHOTO: CATHY TWIGG-BLUMEL

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