Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/859549
62 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 To supplement their estate vineyard on Rutherford's benchland, the winery took a long- term lease on Rutherford's Tonella Vineyard in 2006, removing the old vines and replanting with new rootstocks and clones. Now that Tonella has come onboard, Hill explains that the A- vineyards are being replaced with A+ vineyards. "We're continuing to focus on quality without growing our production," she adds. While Sequoia Grove sources from prestigious vineyards throughout Napa, Hill truly believes in Rutherford where their estate vineyards are located. "The further north or south you go in Napa Valley, the greater the temperature extremes in specific years. Rutherford is in the heart of the valley, which we've noticed to be more consistent vintage to vintage," explains Hill. "It's a site that gives balanced wines that are not overtly aggressive in one area; this consistency of Rutherford is crucial in less ideal growing years, "she adds. Finding Balance "The way Molly and I make wine is pretty similar. It's that perfect 'arc'," says Trujillo. "That journey of the wine from the time you smell it to the lingering finish." Hill explains that their model for a balanced wine stems from Tchelistcheff, who described balanced wines as having a beautiful "bell curve" that begins on the tip of the tongue, fills out in the middle and has a long, lingering finish. If there are any 'hollow spots', it's not a balanced wine. Hill adds, "The greatest vineyards in the world produce grapes that have that big, beautiful bell curve from the get-go. Making great wine begins in the vineyards. It's my job to express that inherent greatness as perfectly as possible- from harvest to blending to bottling." In addition to balancing wine in the cellar, Hill is a busy mother of two young children: Andreas (7) and Maja (5). She recalls bringing them to the winery daily until they were six months old. Winery staff helped to keep them happily occupied, while she worked in the cellar. "Talk about balance," she laughs. "Juggling is a good skill that women have. Multi-tasking is that ability to hold multiple trains of thought at any one time, it is especially important as a mom and winemaker to stay on track. As a mom, its homework, activity schedules and carving out family time. In winemaking, I'm balancing the vineyard with the growers' needs, the different harvests and the different lots we're bringing in." Premium Napa Valley Cabernet Vineyard sourcing is critical for making balanced wine. However, strategic blending of the finished lots and varietals is just as important at Sequoia Grove. The goal of Sequoia Grove Napa Valley Cabernet is to offer a premium Cabernet Sauvignon that represents Napa Valley as a region and at a price point that is also accessible for by-the-glass (BTG) programs. The 2014 Rutherford-dominated bottling consists of grapes sourced from A-list growers, including the Sequoia Grove and Tonella estate vineyards. "We believe that the blending of these different sites is what brings the complexity to this wine," says Trujillo. Shawn Westhoven, Beverage Director at 22 Bowen's Wine Bar & Grille in Newport, RI, has been serving the Sequoia Grove Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon as a premium BTG wine since 2007. "Price for quality is very important to us," says Westhoven. "We taste a lot of wine and love to use that experience to help our guests maximize their experience for their money. The style of Sequoia Grove is exactly the oak, tannin and fruit profile that we find most California wine drinkers are looking for." The highly regarded New England steakhouse prides itself on authenticity and casual elegance. Therefore, serving a BTG wine that expresses a sense of place is wholly in line with the restaurant's philosophy. Westhoven adds, "Their wine is very high-quality and within reach of most people dining at 22 Bowen's. They could spend more, but get less, from several others in this category – but why would they want to? Sequoia Grove is a better choice." Sequoia Grove sets itself apart from other Napa producers by offering a well-made, Cabernet Sauvignon that consists of some of the finest grapes in the region. "In Napa, it is easy to find a great Cab. The challenge is finding ones that are accessible for every customer," explains Darrin Baumunk, Corporate Beverage Buyer at for Houston-based { cover story } The goal at Sequoia Grove is always to achieve balance in the wine. Since every vintage presents new challenges, it's not until the grapes are in the fermenter that Hill decides on the approach and aging for that specific lot. "Vineyard and vintage are really important for us to highlight," says Hill. "That's what makes it fun; that's what makes you want to lay down that vintage and open it up." Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon's sense of place is the result of some of Napa Valley's best dirt: Rutherford dust.