The SOMM Journal

August / September 2017

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Sabers { SOMMjournal.com }  135 I MET CAMERON TYLER about a year ago, and you could tell he just loved what he was doing as Lead Sommelier at Quince. After the restaurant received its third Michelin star last October, I decided to go back and see what was happening at what is one of San Francisco's most prestigious (and hard-to-book) dining destinations. Despite the celebrity that goes with the Michelin honor, Tyler is incredibly humble and believes that his impact on getting the additional star was consistency, enthusiasm, experience and timing—as well as growing the wine program from 700 wines to 1,700. The restaurant has an incred - ible Champagne cart that features great French sparkling wines. If you're in the mood for Louis Roederer 2009 Cristal and caviar, you've come to the right place! This is one pairing on the menu that is a "must try"—a three-piece caviar service that is mind-blowing. Chef Michael Tusk is incredibly talented and makes some amazing dishes, includ - ing spectacular pasta dishes, so older Italian wines sell really well according to Tyler, who sells a fair amount of Gaja. The Tusks also own Cotogna next-door, which has a more casual setting and is also very popular. Staff training is imperative. Tyler does wine classes every Tuesday and Saturday, and staff members taste wines regularly and at lineup, including the food pairing selections and the by-the-glass offerings. There are currently four Advanced and six Certified Sommeliers working at Quince, and they take wine education seriously. Tyler believes that even though Quince has received three stars and the resulting pressure and expectations from guests are extremely high, it's imperative not to be pretentious, and to make sure that guests are having a great time. He is continuously trying to create fun new ideas to enhance the wine service. His latest method of opening wine, for example, is certainly engaging— some - thing I had never seen and quite an under- taking. He calls it the "ice saber." Using a funnel-shaped copper collar that he designed himself, he freezes the neck with liquid nitrogen, then heats it quickly with a kitchen torch and breaks off the neck of the bottle. The wine is then decanted. "It's a showy process," says Tyler, and the guests love it. It's used mostly for older bottles selected for the wine pairings. If you want to get into Quince, reserve early. They are booked three months out! Kim Beto is Vice President of Key Accounts for Southern Glazer's Wine & Spirits of Northern California. Heating quickly with kitchen torch. Breaking off the neck and cork. CATCHING UP WITH LEAD SOMMELIER CAMERON TYLER AT SAN FRANCISCO'S MICHELIN THREE-STAR QUINCE by Kim Beto / photos by C. M. Howard OF STARS AND

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