The SOMM Journal

August / September 2017

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  133 "I don't believe in the scorched-earth policy," says Ken, who uses innovative sustainable farming technique in all the vineyards he works with. "Instead, I want the vines to do as much as they can on their own." This commitment to precision farming shows in the finished wines, crafted by gifted winemaker Greg La Follette, who joined the team in 2014. From his youthful years working as the research viticulturalist and enologist with iconic winemaker André Tchelistcheff at Beaulieu Vineyards in the 1980s, to the world-class wines he helped develop while working with notable brands like Flowers, DeLoach, Tandem, Alquimista and the La Follette label he started in 2009, La Follette has gained a reputation for showcasing the strengths of the wines he crafts with minimal intervention. This partnership has already paid divi - dends for all parties involved. "Having Greg on board, has allowed us to dive deeper into developing single-vineyard wines that are made with the fruit we farm ourselves," says Melissa Moholt-Siebert, who markets the Ancient Oak wines across the nation. As a result, the limited release Pinot Noir in the Ancient Oak portfolio is made exclu - sively with fruit from Block 5. At elevations ranging from 170 to 260 feet, the thin top- soil in this higher segment of the vineyard is interlaced with brittle volcanic stones, which help build a rich, mineral-driven profile that sets it apart from the other plantings on the property. To capture the expression of the site, La Follette uses native yeast and only 35 percent new French oak—mainly Phoenix barrels, which La Follette favors for their subtle nuances, which complement the fruit and avoid distractions. The distinctive character of the block comes alive in the new release of the Ancient Oak 2014 Siebert Ranch Pinot Noir. In the glass, fragrant aromas of red and black fruits lead to secondary notes of wild mushrooms, earth and wild savory herb. On the palate, the wine is layered with rich flavors of black raspberry, cherry cola, nutmeg, fresh sage, mineral and an elegant touch of oak. With a brilliant combination of vibrant acidity, silky texture, structure and backbone, it is a young, powerful and complex offering from Russian River Valley, which becomes more graceful with addi - tional time in the glass or the cellar. For the Appellation Series, a portion of the other Pommard grapes grown on the ranch are blended with fruit sourced from Green Valley to create the annual release of the Ancient Oak Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. With a lovely crimson hue, this wine is complex, elegant and harmonious, with hints of red berries, ripe plum, dried rose petals, red licorice, cinnamon, cocoa pow - der and silky texture on a lingering finish. To widen the delicious offerings from the Ancient Oak portfolio, La Follette uses a similar au naturel approach to capture the distinct flavors of the pristine Chardonnay grapes he works with from the Nurmi, Flyway and Kent Ritchie vineyards in Russian River Valley; the spicy Zinfandel clusters from the Pagnano Vineyard; and a splendid series of Bordeaux varieties he crafts with pure mountain fruit from the Berger Vineyard. "You can talk about winemaking all you want," says La Follette, "but if you don't have grapes in balance to start with then your chances of making a world-class wine are slim to none." Vineyard/Farm Custodian Armulfo Becerra. The Ancient Oak 2014Siebert Ranch Pinot Noir is a young, powerful and complex offer- ing from Russian River Valley From the winery's Appellation Series, the Russian River Valley Pinot Noir includes Pommard clone fruit blended with fruit sources from Green Valley.

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