The SOMM Journal

August / September 2017

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  117 While at Freestone Winery, Heredia spent a harvest at Domaine de Montille in Beaune to learn more about "old-school" winemaking techniques in Burgundy. There, she learned the importance of treat- ing each of the vineyards separately, as they do at Gary Farrell Winery, and took note of their approach in the cellar (100 percent whole-cluster integration, bâtonnage, earlier picks, etc.). "I also learned how to taste and decide when to pick while walking through the vineyards with Alix and Etienne de Montille," recalls Heredia. made a name for herself, earning the reputation as "Winemaker to Watch" by the San Francisco Chronicle. Russian River Valley was a new appellation for her to explore and has been an exciting opportunity. "We get to cherry-pick from the best of the best. Not everybody gets to have Rochioli or Hallberg, or Bacigalupi or Ritchie for that matter," says Heredia rattling off a few of their vineyard designates. These bottlings are a testament to the team's commitment to nurturing founder Gary Farrell's legacy. Farrell was one of the first to take note of the region's potential, seeking out the best growers in the Russian River Valley before it was an appella - tion. He learned "on the job" at Davis Bynum (one of Sonoma County's first commercial wineries). Farrell launched Gary Farrell Winery (GFW) in 1982 with only two barrels of Rochioli Pinot Noir. The wines received great praise for their structure, complexity and restraint, and his work forged the long-term partnerships we continue to see at GFW today. After Farrell sold the winery in 2004, it changed hands multiple times before being purchased by Bill Price, the managing partner of Kistler Vineyard and owner of Three Sticks, Lutum and the famed Durell and Gap's Crown Vineyards; and a group of investors including: Pete Scott, the former CFO of Beringer Wine Estates; and Walt Klenz; former President and CEO of Beringer Wine Estates. They hired General Manager Nancy Bailey to guide the winery with an ongoing emphasis on quality. Bailey evaluated where they had been, which vineyards they were work - ing with and who they wanted to partner with in the future. She then hired Heredia in 2012. "When Theresa first came on board, I took her around and we met all the growers," says Bailey who looks to their farmers as partners and not just sources. Heredia adds, "We spent a little time retrenching. Now, we are thoughtfully pioneering back out with new vineyards." They continue to cultivate relation - ships with many of Farrell's original growers, such as the Pellegrini family's Olivet Lane Vineyard, Emeritus Winery's Hallberg Vineyard and Joe Rochioli's esteemed Rochioli Vineyards. In addition, they're con - stantly trying new sites and adding to their portfolio. Farrell had always been a "sampler," as Heredia put it, so they are keeping that tradition alive in exploring new properties such as Fort Ross Vineyard (Sonoma Coast) in 2014. "We're maintaining the core but experimenting with different areas and different climates," says Heredia. "While some wineries choose to approach eir different vineyards w a "house style" or recipe, at Gary Farrell Winery, every vine- yard lot is treated individually"

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