The SOMM Journal

August / September 2017

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  115 and Brent Young, Jordan's Ranch Manager. (Munselle wears both hats; he and his family are producers in addition to farming over 600 acres of vineyards for others.) The winery representatives' respect for the growers' expertise is palpable. Both sides concur that matching the right culti - var to the right soil and climate is the first imperative for quality and the second is good husbandry in the vineyard. "Francis Coppola himself has said, many times, 'Without the growers, we're nothing," Asimont recounted. Wineries must also try to make the grow - ers' economics work. "You can't ask them to lower the tonnage to a point where they can't stay in business," Davis said. Asimont agreed. "It's better to take quality practices into consideration, not just price per ton. Otherwise, they'll naturally want to focus only on maximizing tonnage." Most of the wineries who purchase fruit from growers hold extensive "grower tastings" before the final blending. The feedback isn't just a ques - tion of quality analysis, Munselle explained. "It helps us understand the winemakers' stylistic goals so we can farm accordingly." The grower relations discussion was a perfect segue to the morning's "Elevation and Topography" seminar at Rodney Strong's breathtaking Rockaway Vineyard. While Rodney Strong's Vineyard Manager, Ryan Decker, manned the large-screen Google Earth map to illustrate the complex contours that shape the valley, Soltysiak, Master Somm Fred Dame and Jim Young, Robert Young Winery owner and Vineyard Manager, led us in a tasting of Cabernets from various elevations. Dame, who rushed from a previous engagement to join the Academy on day two, says he rarely accepts consecutive invitations. "But this is one of my favorite events of the year," he admitted. "I'm constantly amazed at the outstanding quality of the Alexander Valley wines, and it's great to have an opportunity to get to know the people here and see how hard they work." Alexander Cabernet fruit prices have risen by 28 percent over the last five years, and that's great for the growers who are finally receiving a higher return on their sweat equity. Still, as the wines gain their much deserved due, it raises the specter of future non-agricultural development and congestion in the charm - ingly rural valley. Several of us expressed to our hosts the hope that Alexander Valley won't change too much. Not too worry, Harry Wetzel reassured us—and he should know. He's the fourth generation of the Wetzel family acting as stewards of Cyrus Alexander's original property at Alexander Valley Vineyards. The valley's namesake arrived in 1840, and the Wetzels have lovingly restored and pre - served Cyrus's original homes and property. In addition, the Alexander Valley commu- nity has united behind Agricultural Preserve regulations to prevent over-development. "Most of the people who own vineyards and wineries here, it's their livelihood, not a hobby," said Wetzel. "People here love grapes and they love wine, but what they really love is agriculture. They want to keep the valley as it is. That's why you see so many families here for multiple generations." Growers and Wineries: A Close Relationship Spending two days with the folks who live and work in the Alexander Valley wine region is a bit like spending two days with the greatest friends you've never met. You can tell these people love what they do and enjoy working together. Things get more than hectic during harvest, but it's the time when cooperation between growers and wineries must click together- even through the longest days. "We work so closely together, we really love each other," Tyler Click said. Everyone at the panelists' table nodded in complete accord. Grower relations panelists (left to right): Tyler Click, owner REVM Vineyard Management; Brent Young, Jordan Winery Ranch Manager; Bret Munselle, Grower/Producer/ President of Alexander Valley Winegrowers; Rob Davis, Jordan Winery Winemaker. Growing elevations for the wine in the Topography and Elevation seminar ranged from Stuhlmuller Vineyards' 170–600 feet, to Stonestreet Estate Vineyards' 2,000 feet. Rodney Strong's Rockaway Vineyard, Ferrari Carano's Reserve, Robert Young's Scion and Medlock Ames's Kate's & B's all fell in the mid-elevations. Topography and Elevation panelists from left: Fred Dame, MS; moderator Stefen Soltysiak, CWE, CS; Jim Young, Robert Young Winery owner and Vineyard Manager; Ryan Decker, Rodney Strong Vineyard Manager. The table is set for the final dinner at Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville.

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