Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/759555
60 / the tasting panel / december 2016 IMPORTS 94 Bischöfliche Weingüter 2015 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese, Mosel, Germany ($30) Luscious and sweet with ripe peach and juicy citrus; fresh and showing a core of pure acidity. A definitive Mosel Spätlese. SCHMITT SÖHNE 90 Borgo San Daniele 2014 Pinot Grigio, Friuli, Italy ($27) Brief skin contact provides a pale blush of color ; keen apple and pear fruit predominate on the palate; clean, silky and bright. H. MERCER IMPORTS 90 Georges Duboeuf 2015 Pouilly- Fuissé, France ($35) Smooth and bright with juicy acidity and ripe pear fruit; fresh and lively with minerals and lush texture; balanced and long. QUINTESSENTIAL WINES 91 Cave Spring Cellars 2014 Indian Summer Riesling, Cave Spring Vineyard, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Canada ($27/375 ml.) Tangy, late-harvest style Riesling, creamy and sweet with ripe apple and peach fruit. MGZ ASSOCIATES 94 Taittinger NV Brut Rosé Prestige, Champagne, France ($84) Pale salmon pink; bright, crisp and racy Chardonnay-dominated flavors; tangy, fresh and juicy. A touch of elegance for the holiday table. KOBRAND 94 Gosset NV Grand Rosé, Champagne, France ($85) Pale pink; stony minerals and racy acidity threaded through raspberry and crisp citrus; stylish, vibrant and long. WILSON DANIELS A Passion for Port FASCINATING SELECTIONS FROM SOGEVINUS I HAVE ALWAYS LOVED TAWNY PORTS. FOR ME, it's the special quality of rancio that sets them apart. Rancio is that complex, nut-like, oxidized character that Port takes on when it is exposed to air for a long time. Sogevinus is a Portuguese-owned company that controls several historic brands including Kopke, Burmester, Barros and Cálem. The company's estate vineyards comprise 889 acres, and it produces nearly 600,000 cases of Port annually. I recently tasted through a small percentage of the many Sogevinus colheita tawny Ports and found them to be remarkable. Of particular interest was a rare white Port. BLUE REVIEWS 92 Barros 1974 Porto, Portugal ($175) Bright amber color ; smooth and lush with pretty fruit and juicy style; rich and lush; clean and fresh. 92 Burmester 1989 Porto, Portugal ($52) Deep amber color ; lush and rich; spicy and toasted with treacle and honey notes; dense, long and showing some rancio. 93 Burmester 40 Year Old Porto, Portugal ($170) Lush amber color ; silky and rich, toasty, floral and smooth; ripe, elegant and juicy; bright fruit and good balance. 93 Kopke 1981 Porto, Portugal ($80) Rich amber color ; deep, toasted nose; smooth and rich; dense and creamy with silky texture and lush fruit; soft rancio and tangy acidity. 93 Kopke 30 Year Old White Porto, Portugal ($89) Bright amber color ; silky and juicy with bright fruit and lovely rancio; elegant, smooth and rich. 94 Kopke 1978 Porto Matured in Wood, Portugal ($100) Deep amber color ; silky and smooth; juicy and fresh with lovely fruit and balanced; rancio, toast and honey. 95 Kopke 1966 Porto Matured in Wood, Portugal ($220) Deep amber color ; elegant, silky and toasty with rich, deep flavors of ripe fruit and complex flavors of wood, spice and honey; creamy texture, rancio, fruit and great depth. 94 Kopke 40 Year Old White Porto, Portugal ($110) Bright amber color; toasty nose; lush, toasty and juicy with burnished fruit and smooth rancio; complex and rich; long and lovely. WINEWORTH ($52)