The Tasting Panel magazine

October 2016

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october 2016  /  the tasting panel  /  89 Courvoisier® Cognac and Liqueur, 18-40% alc./vol. Courvoisier Import Company, Deerfield, IL USA Courvoisier is a trademark of Courvoisier S.A.S. ©2016 Courvoisier S.A.S. Cognac Cocktails While Cognac is usually thought of as a spirit sipped neat, Courvoisier VSOP makes an excellent base for quality cocktails. Milk Punch ◗ 1 bottle Courvoisier VSOP Cognac ◗ 1 bottle Txakolina, Muscadet or similar dry white wine ◗ 1½ qt. nectarine juice ◗ ½ qt. lime juice ◗ ½ qt. simple syrup Combine all. In a sauce pan heat one quart whole milk to 145°. Add to punch mix. Let sit for several days. Strain through cheese cloth (and coffee filter if necessary). Make a sachet of fresh herbs: marjoram, tarragon, thyme and rosemary. Steep in finished punch to taste. Add one part water to every four parts punch. Chill well and serve in wine glasses. Under the Cherry Moon ◗ ¾ oz. cherry syrup* ◗ ½ oz. lemon juice ◗ 1½ oz. Courvoisier VSOP Cognac ◗ 6 dashes Peychaud's Bitters ◗ 2 dashes saline Shake. Pour into a flute and top with sparkling rosé. Garnish with a cherry. *CHERRY SYRUP ◗ 2 lbs. pitted cherries, blended ◗ 1 lb. cane sugar ◗ 1 qt. water Heat to a boil, stirring constantly. Skim top layer of sugar. Let cool. The worlds of wine and spirits unite in the glass and behind the bar in harmony in San Francisco, where Bar Manager Nick Melle— holding an Under the Cherry Moon—stands with Wine Director Sam Bogue. differing flint, chalk and clay soils of the region and 30-year-old vines, the base wines that create Courvoisier Cognacs are far from generic; they reflect the unique characteristics of terroir, vintage and yeasts used in their production. To better understand what these varieties contribute to Courvoisier, I teamed up with Bates to present a tasting of three wines made from grapes connected to Cognac—a pétillant Chenin Blanc (the auspicious parent of Colombard), a charming blend of Ugni Blanc and Colombard, and a lusciously aged Sémillon—to bridge tasters to the complex and layered flavors of the first of four Courvoisier Cognacs. With palates stepped up and fully ready to appreciate the considerable nuances of aged Cognac, Bates led tast- ers on a journey that followed 25 hectoli- ters of base wine through the distillation and maturation techniques that result in each of the expressions. Key points of differentiation for Courvoisier production include the intentional use of unfiltered base wine that contains lees, or spent yeast cells—a tricky process, as lees can settle in the bottom of the still pot and burn—and the careful separation of the heads and tails during the second distillation in a classic copper Charentais pot still. "Still configuration plays an important role in production at Courvoisier," said Bates. When the new eau-de-vie makes its way from the still to the barrel, the grain size of the oak staves will contribute specific flavor profiles. Larger-grained staves impart sweet baking spices like cinnamon, while smaller-grained staves contribute caramel and vanilla; Bates explained that Courvoisier often alternates them in a single barrel. "Our distillers are obsessive about sourcing oak," said Bates. "They select the actual 200-year-old trees." Once cut, the staves are left to season for three years before being crafted into a Cognac barrel that will influence the Cognac differently if housed in a dry or naturally humid cellar. "Blending is the very heart of quality in Cognac," said Bates, who explains what can only be described as a democratic blending process at Courvoisier: "We conduct comparative tastings with a committee comprised of people from every department." Voila! The resulting expressions all have something unique to say. Made from base wines that are fermented on the fine lees, Courvoisier VS is aged from three to five years and shows predomi- nately ripe stone fruit and crisp cedar flavors, while Courvoisier VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) is a blend of Cognacs that have been aged from five to eight years, offering layers of complex floral and light menthol aromas with bright notes of cherry and dried stone fruit. Courvoisier XO (Extra Old), a blend from 11 to 25 years and subject to different cellaring, shows more attack and earthy depth, while Napoleon is an hors d'âge (beyond age) blend of the Grande and Petite Champagne crus that is aged ten to 20 years. Fine and bright with a spicy attack and subtle rancio from Cognacs in the blend that exceed 15 years of age, this expression is fitting of the emperor's name. "Blending is the very heart of quality in Cognac," said Courvoisier National Brand Ambassador Zahra Bates, who speaks passionately about the entire production process of the spirit that begins its life as wine. Sommelier Kaela Miller nosed her way through a tasting of Courvoisier VS, VSOP, XO and Napoleon.

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