Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/735312
8 / the tasting panel / october 2016 experimentation is an expert knowledge of which expressions of Cabernet work best on their properties down to the micro-terroir , sometimes even differing from row to row. When Tonella was totally replanted in 2006, it was to those specifications, and the results are now becoming apparent as it produces breathtaking Cabernet vintage after vintage. Tasting On-Site I leave Molly to return to harvest, and move on to a comfortably rustic private room behind Sequoia Grove's main tasting area. There I meet Dean Busquaert, Senior Wine Educator at Sequoia Grove, who is about to begin his "A Taste for Cabernet" experience with some excited visitors to the winery. Dean's program aims to debunk the myth that Cabernet is a one-dimensional wine, only suited for pairing with rich, heavy foods. "Most people have a simple understanding of wine pairings," Dean explains, "and when you ask them, it's usually the classic answer: red wine with red meat, and white wine with chicken or fish. But the kind of meat actually doesn't matter." Here, he takes a deliberate pause to let his audience consider his state- ment. "The preparation is what matters. There are some elements in food that are not meant to be paired with Cabernet Sauvignon." After a brief lesson on Sequoia Grove's terroir, complete with soil samples and vineyard maps, we get to tasting. "A Taste for Cabernet" leads participants through several fundamental flavor elements: salty, sweet, sour, acidic and umami. Each flavor is tasted with a sip of Cabernet to demonstrate how it affects the flavor of the wine, and vice versa. (Check out the sidebar to see how differ- ent flavor elements fared, and for pairing suggestions.) "If the food creates a situation where you don't recognize the wine's flavors, then you've ruined the wine," says Busquaert. "For example, chocolate is mostly sugar, and sweetness dulls the fruit and body of Cabernet." The couple tasting with me begins to protest, as chocolate and Cab are supposed to be an ideal pairing. Anticipating this, Dean produces small pieces of bitter- sweet chocolate. We bite in, and then take a sip of Sequoia Grove Napa Valley Cabernet. The result: The Cabernet that moments ago was deeply concentrated with dark fruits suddenly has almost no fruit at all. Busquaert, it would seem, knows what he is talking about. Sequoia Grove 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, Napa Valley (SRP $38) A plethora of elegant dark berry and dried herb aromas; savory blackberry character buttressed by mouth-drying tannin with new wood, cedar, sagebrush and tobacco spice. The Taste for Cab: We took a bite of Fuji apple, and the sugar from it essentially knocked the fruit in the wine out of balance, or as Molly Hill would say, "out of whack." We then squeezed lemon juice into our mouths; our Cabernet was suddenly silky smooth. Dean explained that in moderation, acid can make a Cabernet more accessible and food friendly. Finally, we tried a pinch of rock salt. The wine's tannins were some- what softened, and the fruit remained vibrant. Definitely a winner. Conclusion: Sequoia Grove Cabernet pairs perfectly with lemon sauces (even with fish!), roasted duck breast and all manner of salty dishes (yes, including red meat). Avoid sweet foods like chocolate. Sequoia Grove 2012 Cambium (SRP $125) A Bordeaux-style, Cabernet- dominated blend with heady aromas of violets and red and blackberry preserves; chalky tannins and mineral- rich graphite notes; new wood cedar and tobacco spice. The Taste for Cab: Heads-up to all the wineries serving cheese plates: From Parmigiano-Reggiano to blue and brie cheeses, check in on the pH (acidity) of the cheese. Brie, which is already sweet, has very little acidity, and if you add honey to that, you're setting that Cabernet up for failure. Aged Gouda, however, has a much higher acidity and lots of salt, and allows the Cambium to absolutely sing with flavor. Conclusion: Avoid soft, non-acidic cheeses. Play with the balance of elements that work well with Cabernet: sour, salty, umami—they all work beautifully together. Try hard cheeses such as Gouda. "A Taste for Cabernet" Tasting and Takeaways