Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/689634
Balance in Nature King Estate encompasses an impressive 1,033 Oregon Tilth–certified and Salmon Safe acres, of which roughly 450 are under vine. The balance of the land is divided among bucolic orchards, gardens and vast, unspoiled areas of riparian habitat and native wet prairie. There are five and a half acres of gardens and greenhouses on the property; this includes ever-rotating crops of strawberries and vegetables, along with tidy rows of squat red-branched blueberry bushes, raspberries and annual flowers destined to grace the tast- ing room and restaurant. While on a tour of the gardens, I stop to observe a row of hives, audibly humming with activity; the bees waste no time in taking advantage of fall's waning bounty. The hives, I am told, are capable of producing up to 300 pounds of honey each year. The entire estate is one vast, interconnected, symbiotic ecosystem. And it's this holistic approach that brings all of the moving pieces—the vineyards, orchards and gardens—together and keeps them overlapping. King Estate produces an astonishing 1,000 tons of compost each year, all of which is re- incorporated into the soil each spring. This much compost isn't impressive until you see it in person, a massive darkly-hued mound rich in grape pom- ace, rapidly breaking down. It's discreetly hidden at the back of the property, yet it's as vital a part of the entire chain as any of the other methods the team employs to maintain the health of the soil. Master Gardener Jessie Russell works closely with the culinary team to scrupulously select seeds that are not only organic but also result in delicious produce. And between harvesting seasonal crops, her team plants brassica, vetch and wild radish to help break up stubborn clay and silt loam soils. The entire estate team embraces, and operates around, seasonal fluctuations. From the four acres of solar panels positioned to capture precious sunlight, to the raptors which are encouraged to nest in nearby trees, the inner workings of a very well-laid plan is evident. The Cadence of Charcuterie For Charcuterie Chef Tim Bass, food is a "spiritual thing." A native of Eu- gene, Tim studied biology and chemistry at the University of Oregon. And like so many who end up in the belly of a kitchen, he worked his way up, starting as a dishwasher before moving to front of house, and later landing a job as a sous chef. His cooking has taken him from the wilds of Alaska to metropolitan Washington D.C., before he circled back to Oregon. According to Bass, the craft of charcuterie takes organization, discipline, data sheets and, like winemaking, a bit of chemistry. Bass approaches his craft with mindfulness and precision. Curing is based on weight, percentages and grams: "It's like making a piece of music. There is a structure, an archi- tecture. The focus is to match the tempo of the wines." In my conversation with Tim, one gets a real sense of the seasonal rhythm of charcuterie production. Bacon is cured on a weekly basis, since pork is avail- able year-round, while game birds are strictly a fall item. "Summer is a busy time here; I make a lot of pâté during the summer." We're standing in his well-lit, airy kitchen, sampling charcuterie from the menu. I linger over the duck pâté. It's a blend of fresh pork leg, foie gras, lemon zest, estate-grown dehydrated blueberries, salt and pepper. The acid- ity from the lemon zest adds lift to the dense and decadent foie gras, and the blueberries lend a touch of sweetness. I'm also intrigued by his liberal use of wine lees. The pork rillettes, wild boar Swiss chard, radish and cabbage are all organically grown on the King Estate property. The winery recently announced that it is "in transition" to Demeter Biodynamic certification (see sidebar). 5 0 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t