The Clever Root

Spring / Summer 2016

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1 8 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t COOKBOOK NOOK Exotic Re-run English cookbook authority Diana Henry has become one of the most de- pendable and creative figures in the modern kitchen. She is now re-releas- ing her first book, Crazy Water Pickled Lemons: Enchanting Dishes from the Middle East, Mediterranean and North Africa ($20, Mitchell Beazley). The book, originally released in 2002, instantly wowed critics, yet Henry was still far ahead of her time, utilizing flavors and ingredients that were uncommon and hard to find. Nowadays, ingredients such as saf- fron, cardamom and flower-water are much more accessible, meaning Henry's unique flavors have finally hit Western kitchens. All of the recipes have an enchanting quality, infused with richness; perfumed and exotic. Try the cardamom-baked figs with plums and burnt honey or the roast duck with honey, lavender and thyme. Recipes are accompanied by stunning photographs and charming excerpts of poetry, something not commonly found in modern day cookbooks. Discover something new in Diana Henry's beautifully done Crazy Water Pickled Lemons. No B.S. Cooking Acclaimed chef Brendan Collins, a card-carrying British bloke himself (although currently practic- ing his craft at his Los Angeles restaurant Birch), is teaching guys all the basics in his new book Cooking, Blokes & Artichokes: A Modern Man's Kitchen Handbook ($29.95, Kyle Books). This no-nonsense book is straightforward, easy-to- follow and designed to enhance the cooking skills of the modern man. Most recipes can be thrown together in a few minutes and special equipment is not required. The 100 recipes cover everything from sand- wiches, also known as "Things on Bread," to full on roasts. Make "Man Food in a Pinch" while read- ing Collins's witty commentary filled with stories from his childhood. Lastly, Collins's famous meat- centric dishes are all there, accessible and easily executed. Cooking, Blokes & Artichokes is dude food with culinary technique to back it up. See p. 52 for more from Brendan Collins. by Anthony Dias Blue COOKBOOKS Get Focused IT USED TO BE THAT COOKBOOKS were essentially general and trying to be all things to all people—classics like The Joy of Cooking and Mastering the Art of French Cooking come to mind. Lately, this has changed. The best books are the ones with a strong, individual focus. This trend in cookbooks mirrors the change in restaurants, where today's chefs are creat- ing a variety of cuisines with vibrant and focused personal style. Here are three exceptional recent books that offer a very personal and unique ap- proach to cuisine and the culture beyond the cuisine. Preserved lemons for spiced chicken with melting onions. PHOTO: JASON LOWE Portrait of a Culture There is no culinary force that is making waves across the globe as dramatically as Korean cuisine. Chef Deuki Hong and writer Matt Rodbard have spent the last two years working on Koreatown: A Cookbook ($30, Clarkson Potter). Don't let the name fool you, Koreatown reaches farther than your average K-Town BBQ. With thoughtfully gathered recipes, sto- ries, photos and interviews from Korean- American neighborhoods all across the country, Koreatown is a portrait of culture, community, and most important, how food contributes to it all. Start with a brief history on banchan, Korea's world of bountiful side dishes, before jumping into the legendary realm of Korean barbecue. Traditional favorites such as bulgogi and kalbi make their well- deserved appearances, but it's the lesser known gems like haejangguk, Korea's infamous hangover soup, that really steal the show. Koreatown is a journey through culture and will be your best investment all year. Chef Brendan Collins. PHOTO: ERIC WATERMAN

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