Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/659479
By Myra Kornfeld and Stephen Massmilla taste of health Photos: Michael Grimaldi Pancakes 1½ lbs. spinach, stemmed and washed, or 8 oz baby spin- ach (see the Cook's Note) 3/4 c fi nely chopped fresh sorrel 1 tbsp minced peeled fresh ginger 1 tsp grated orange zest 1/4 c dried currants 1/4 c unbleached white all-purpose fl our or rice fl our 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 1 tsp salt Freshly ground black pepper Aroma-free coconut oil, ghee or extra virgin olive oil, for cooking the pancakes 1. Make the sauce: Add the yogurt, cilantro, serrano, gin- ger, lemon juice, and ¼ teaspoon salt to a blender; buzz until smooth. Taste, and add a pinch more salt if necessary. Transfer to a small bowl. 2. Make the pancakes: Wilt the spinach in a large skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently or tossing with tongs to push the uncooked leaves to the bottom of the pot. (You don't have to add water to the pot because the drops clinging to the leaves from washing are enough to cook them.) Cook until the leaves have wilted and shrunk and are a vibrant green. 3. Pour the spinach into a strainer. Press the greens to squeeze out the excess water. (Alternatively, use a ricer to squeeze out the liquid.) Transfer the spinach to a cutting board and fi nely chop. You should have about 1¼ cups. 4. Add the spinach to a medium bowl. Stir in the sorrel, ginger, orange zest, currants, fl our, eggs, salt and a sprinkling of pep- per; mix well to combine. 5. Have ready a parchment paper–covered baking sheet. 6. Warm a thin layer of oil over medium-high heat in a large cast- iron, heavy-bottomed, or nonstick skillet. The oil is hot when a hand held an inch above the skillet feels uncomfortably hot. Us- ing a tablespoon of batter for each pancake, drop 6 pancakes into the oil, being careful not to overcrowd the pan. Use the back of the spoon to fl atten the cakes a little. Cook until gold- en-green, about 4 minutes. 7. Flip the pancakes to the other side, pressing them down with a spatula to fl atten a bit more. Cook another 2 minutes or so until golden. Transfer to the baking sheet and keep warm (see Cook's Note). 8. Continue with the remaining batter, adding more oil to the pan between batches as necessary. 9. Serve hot, with a drizzle or puddle of sauce. Cook's Note You can keep the fi nished pancakes warm in a 200ºF oven while you cook new ones. Better yet, make the whole lot and transfer them to a parchment paper–covered baking sheet. Heat them at 350ºF for a few minutes to warm quickly. Poet's Note Spinach, the so-called "Persian herb," arrived in China in 647 CE as a gift from the king of Nepal. The Chinese loved it. It took another 400 years for it to show up in Europe, with the help of the conquering Moors of 11th-century Spain. ("Spinach" derives from the Spanish word espinacas, from the Arabic isfanakh.) Ibn Hadjadj, a Spanish moor, described it in a treatise on spinach as the "prince of vegetables." Hundreds of years later it reached Northern Europe, where monks were permitted to eat it on fast days. When spear-shaped sorrel pierces the ground, it too is a mark- er of spring, though this hardy green lasts through the summer into the fall. It has a long history of cultivation in Europe, was much loved in the Middle Ages, and has recently made a big comeback in green markets in the United States. Excerpted from Cooking with the Muse: A Sumptuous Gather- ing of Seasonal Recipes, Culinary Poetry, and Literary Fare by Myra Kornfeld and Stephen Massimilla. Tupelo Press (2016) april/may 2016 19