Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/646914
march 2016 / the tasting panel / 87 Given Becker's talents, the Mark West family is expanding as planned. Constellation purchased Mark West Wines, a fast-growing Pinot Noir brand, from Purple Wine Company in 2012 with the intention of furthering the brand's reach. The growing brand, which is Becker's first project as wine- maker for the company, continues at a healthy clip. The brand's California-appellated, entry-level Pinot Noir ($10) continues to exceed expectations at its thrifty price point. Becker sources fruit from Monterey and San Benito counties and crafts a varietally-correct wine with medium-plus acidity, lighter tannins and plenty of red cherry, cranberry, brown spice and vanilla, without the sweetness that mars much of the segment. Billed appropriately as "the dark side of Pinot Noir," Becker steps up extrac- tion with Mark West Black ($13.99), which is sourced from Monterey County but drinks more like a warmer vintage from Russian River Valley. He uses a saignée method for more skin-to-must contact, and 35 percent new oak for a rounder wine with medium acidity and rich flavors of cassis, black cherry, mocha and nutmeg. The style lends itself to aperitif consumption and foods like chocolate that pair well with the intentionally lower acidity. "The beauty of this new project is that Mark West remains totally devoted to Pinot Noir," said Becker, who has upped the ante with four Pinots sourced from the Russian River, Santa Lucia Highlands, Carneros and most recently, the Willamette Valley, for a more-refined tier dubbed the Appellation Series ($20 SRP). These smaller Appellation Series Pinot Noir lots are each reflective of their vineyard sites, with medium-plus acidity and characteristics that clearly differentiate them in the glass. They spend a long stretch of time in 35 to 40 percent new French oak, which was well-knit even in the barrel samples. The 2013 Russian River Valley ($21.99) has fragrant sage, black raspberry and vanilla flavors, with plenty of intensity on the palate and medium tannins, while the 2014 Santa Lucia ($19.99) was bolder with black cherry, plum, smoky vanilla and caramel on the finish. The 2014 Willamette and Carneros, which I have not yet tasted, are being released this month; Becker's track record points to a wine style that will be in keeping with vintage expression. In California, the words thrifty and Pinot Noir rarely find themselves in the same sentence, but Becker has crafted wines that over deliver across a range of wine styles and prices which means there's a little something for everyone. While "serious" Pinot Noir drinkers might overlook Mark West's lighter, entry-level wine, its appeal is undeniable in that it's true to form: a cooler-climate expression that delivers the variety's characteristics in a lithe body. Pinot Noir's seductive qualities aren't lost, they're simply dialed back for a style that doesn't require any heavy lifting. Mark West Black has a ready audience in consumers who enjoy the texture and richness of a Pinot Noir that has a little more meat on its bones. "The everyday Mark West Pinot drinker should feel completely confident in recognizing the brand and trading up to Mark West Black," said Becker. "It's a trade up we know they're going to enjoy." Mark West Black Potato Chip and Sea Salt Chocolate Bark Mark West pairs beautifully with chocolate, but don't take our word for it! ◗ 16 oz. 72% dark chocolate, finely chopped ◗ ¾ cup crushed kettle-style potato chips, divided in half ◗ 1 teaspoon flaky salt (like Maldon) Place chocolate in a large, heat- proof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water. Stir until melted and smooth. Remove bowl from heat and stir in half of the potato chips. Spread onto a nonstick pan into a rectangle, about ¼ inch thick. Sprinkle salt over all chocolate, then lightly press the remaining potato chips into the chocolate. Put in a cool place to set for one to two hours. Break into pieces and serve. PHOTO: CHRIS LESCHINSKY Mark West California Pinot Noir ($10) is true to form: a cooler climate-expression that delivers the variety's characteris- tics in a lithe body.