Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/646914
18 / the tasting panel / march 2016 THE MESSAGE The finished wines and barrel tastings of Banfi Estate. Moderators Fred Dame, MS, and Cristina Mariani- May, CEO, Banfi Vintners. PHOTO: LEIGH CASTELLI PHOTO: LEIGH CASTELLI A Higher Perspective D rinking wine at 9 a.m. is one thing, but tasting bold Brunello di Montalcino is another. Especially when it's with revered Master Sommelier Fred Dame and ardent third-generation family proprietor Cristina Mariani-May. The two of them played off of each other like Brunello and Bistecca alla Fiorentina at the Brunello di Montalcino: A Master's Perspective seminar during the first SommCon in San Diego this last November. While tasting, we covered a myriad of concepts; the effects of elevation, microclimate variation and, of course, the specifics of Banfi's contribution to Brunello di Montalcino. Mariani-May's Italian-American family-owned winery estate, Castello Banfi, is largely responsible for popularizing Brunello di Montalcino in the late '70s, and continues to elevate the region even today via Sangiovese clone isolation and innovative winemaking technology. I could go into far more fascinating historical, technical and scientific detail, but the bottom line is if you're going to learn about Brunello di Montalcino, you'd be hard pressed to find a more suitable resource . . . This is likely why the attendees eagerly tasted through two handfuls of Banfi Brunellos, including the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino, 2010 Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino, 2007 Poggio all'Oro Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, 1997 Brunello di Montalcino and, my favor- ite part—not to say that I enjoyed them more, but educationally speaking—four single-vineyard barrel samples: Poggioni, Biadaioli, Sorrena and Mandrielle, all from the 2013 vintage, and the finished 2010 Poggio alle Mura Riserva barrel sample. Fred Dame, as charming and good-humored as ever, would occasionally up the intensity: "This is really illuminating. This is how you understand wine. We're constantly teaching finished product in the Master's program but really these pieces are what we should be working with." After trying all four, we debated the blending ratio of vineyards, an incredible instructive exercise in the art form called winemaking. Puzzling together wine wasn't the only intimation made that morning. "Montalcino today is what Napa was in the '60s and '70s—everybody working together to rise as a whole," said Fred. He turned to Cristina and jabbed, "Enjoy this golden age while you can." We laughed, but the fact is that the Mariani family has done more for that area than any other family in the region. Although, according to Cristina, "All ships will rise with incom- ing tide." —Jessie Birschbach