Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/637107
86 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2016 2013 Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir Perspective In our final event of the day, our sommeliers sat down in Ventana Vineyards' historic whitewashed barn to double-blind taste six 2013 Arroyo Seco Pinot Noirs. The objective was to gauge terroir- related characteristics through dia - logue with four winemakers: Mark Chesebro (Chesebro Wines and Ventana Vineyards); Mike Kohne (Mercy Vineyards); Steve Peck (J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines); and Sabrine Rodems (Ventana Vineyards). A sampling of everyone's observations: Chesebro 2013 Cedar Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir—A tautly strung, medium-bodied wine charged with terrific acidity and almost Asian, peppery/anise-like spice. Comments by sommeliers concurred: "feminine and high acid," "wild strawberry, nearly candy-like," "rose petals" and "all-encompassing without being overpowering." The winemaker him - self (Chesebro) found the wine to be "lean, delicate, but a little astringent with tannin," while speculating that it "seems to be made by someone who loves Burgundy." Kohne commented on "wild red berry character—strawberry/raspberry/rhubarb." Rodems praised its "strawberry-in-cream fruit," while Peck commented that the wine "seems to trade freshness for femininity." J. Lohr 2013 Fog's Reach Pinot Noir—Classic Arroyo Seco profile of lush, rounded fruit veering towards strawberry/licorice, plus loamy, faintly compost-like earthiness and sweet, toasty French oak; generous yet soft on the palate. Sommelier comments included "swells up in the middle towards ripe, sweet/savory finish," "broad, opulent feel," "volup - tuous, but with great acid," "lush fruit, big oak and touches of minerality." Rodems com- mented that the "black cherry, oak enriched delivery would appeal to a lot of people." La Crema 2013 Panorama Vineyard Pinot Noir—Soft, moderately weighted, red berry–perfumed qualities tinged with minerality and black tea, and given espresso-like toastiness by noticeably audible new oak. Sommelier comments included "pomegranate and chocolate covered blueberry," "hibiscus tea and violet nuances," and "red fruit and pine- like oak." Peck agreed that "oak has a lot of impact," while Kohne praised its "black pepper spice and broad structure." Chesebro allowed that "there's a lot going on in the nose." Mercy 2013 Cedar Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir—The second wine in this tasting sourced from this 60-acre, sandy, cobblestoned site (co-owned by Chesebro and farmed by Michael Griva) had strikingly similar qualities to the first wine (crafted by Chesebro)—a lean, lanky yet bright feel, spice and earth tinged fruit, zesty with acidity. The winemaker (Kohne) noted its "tart, rhubarb-like fruit and minerally, rustic feel." Sommeliers men - tioned "savory notes, "a little bacon fat, orange rind, and Rolo-like chocolate-caramel richness," "earthy and alluring, exotic notes," "some cola, sour cherry and licorice," and "black tea and potpourri." Chesebro noted a "tense balance of fruit and oak, but I can't decide which one wins out." Scott Family 2013 Dijon Clones Pinot Noir—Here the floral, red Arroyo Seco fruit is tinged by almost microbial earthiness; yet round, soft and easy on the palate. Sommelier comments include "good balance of fruit, oak, earth and baking spice," "consumer friendly body (12.7% alcohol), tasting dryer than its actual residual sugar (2.7 grams). Ventana 2011 Le Mistral White— 50% Viognier plus Marsanne and Roussanne; white flower, beeswax and pine notes; mouth-watering lemon/ citrus in medium body . Chesebro 2012 Mission Ranch Pinot Noir—Black and red berry per - fumes punctuated by loamy-earth tones; meaty medium-full body; subtle new oak (10%) backdrop. Ventana 2012 Mission Ranch Pinot Noir—Generous style; fragrant wild plucked berry notes backed by smoky/ toasty oak; fleshy, round, juicy appeal. Folktale 2013 Mission Ranch Pinot Noir—An even riper, plummy style, with a fleshy, earthy, cocoa-shavings core; almost fat, round, yet meaty with tannin. Chesebro 2012 Grenache— Graphic demonstration of Arroyo Seco's underrated penchant for Rhône varieties; from Cedar Lane Vineyard (a low-vigor, sandy, cobblestoned site, located in the riverbed corridor next to Griva Vineyard); fragrant, wild berry/ strawberry aromas with peppery spice; lively, fulsome medium body. Ventana 2014 Grenache—Purplish red; peppery spice strawberry/black - berry jam aroma tinged with wild sagebrush; lush, earthy, spicy, medium-full sensations lit up by snappy acid and slightly gripping tannin. Ventana 2014 Rubystone—60% Grenache/40% Syrah; ripe, and sweet- floral perfume with dark berry quality; lush, round, fleshy fruit shored up by moderate tannin. { somm camp } Ventana Vineyards historic barn serves as a tasting room.