Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/637107
{ SOMMjournal.com } 85 SCOTT FAMILY ESTATE'S GROWTH IN THE "GORGE" In the southwest corner of the appellation, the Arroyo Seco River has carved out a gash in the coastal mountains with plantable acreage on both sides of what locals unofficially call the "Gorge." Leading us deep into the canyon along an unpaved road between the mountain slopes and the cobble strewn dry riverbed below, Arroyo Seco Vineyards President Roger Motoiso (who manages Scott Family's Monterey plantings) explained, "In this part of Arroyo Seco, where wind and temperatures are more moderated, the shaly, alluvial benchland loam is very conducive to red wine grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Syrah, as well as Pinot Noir." In a sun-speckled spot among the vines, we enjoyed glasses of a velvety, strawberryish, loamy/dried kitchen herbed Scott Family 2013 Dijon Clone Pinot Noir—a softer expres - sion of the Arroyo Seco–grown fruit—with Scott Family Estate General Manager Morgan Zaninovich and winemaker Tyson Wolf; while Motoiso tossed loins of lamb and fresh trout on an open-fire grill—a revelation with both the Pinot Noir and the svelte, crisp yet creamy Scott Family 2014 Arroyo Seco Chardonnay, lavished with all the tropical and citrus- fresh fruit qualities associated with the region. Then we sat down to a lunch with sides made by some of Motoiso's vineyard crew: freshly hand-made tortillas, pico de gallo, nopales and tuna (pads and fruit of prickly pear cactus). What a perfect day! Low-vigor shale/sandstone soil at Scott Family Estate's vineyards in the "Gorge." On the same benchland site where the Franciscan order estab- lished their Mission Soledad way back in 1791, the Mirassou family broke ground on the first modern-day vineyard in Salinas Valley in 1961. The oldest existing vines (Merlot) in this 240-acre plant- ing date back to 1983, and there has been continuous replant- ing—especially to Pinot Noir, making up over 60% of the vineyard today—well before and after current ownership took over in 2005. Located at the north end of the appellation, Mission Ranch Vineyard juts right up against the southern edges of the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, where winds can reach moderate gale speeds. After demonstrating some of the viticultural techniques utilized to ripen Pinot Noir under these marginal conditions—particularly Smart-Dyson trellising, which exposes fruit to sunlight by train - ing vertical canes both upwards and downwards from double- cordons—Mission Ranch Vineyard grower/partner Mark Chesebro led our group through a tasting of some of Arroyo Seco's edgier wines, along with Sabrine Rodems, who crafts wines for Ventana Vineyards , as well as Ventana co-proprietor Randy Pura. Some highlights: Chesebro 2014 Albariño—Steel tank–fermented and steel barrel–aged on lees; flowery, minerally, sleek and palate- slaking with lemon curd nervosité. Scratch 2013 Ventana Vineyard Riesling—Personal label by Sabrine Rodems; beautiful white flower fragrance with trace of diesel; tart, silky medium (left) Somm Campers Aleks Berry, Jesus Evangelista and Patrick Le Bras at Mission Ranch Vineyard. (cen- ter) Rachel Macalisang and Albert Letizia. (right) James La Mar and Jienna Basaldu.