Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/611718
december 2015 / the tasting panel / 73 Usquaebach, however, is Cobalt's flagship brand. Since the mid- 1900s, it has been blended in Glasgow by three generations of the highly esteemed Laing family of independent bottlers. "We have worked with the Laings for nearly half a century, first Douglas Laing & Co, and now Hunter Laing & Co," says Ryan Judson, Brand Ambassador for Usquaebach Scotch Whisky. "Their relationship with the previous blender at William Grigor & Sons was essential to continuing the historic quality of the whiskies." Sourcing whiskies from curated stocks and selecting only the best Highland single malts, then finishing them in both American oak and Sherry casks, Usquaebach is one of the few remaining Scotch whiskies to be hand-blended and hand-bottled. Three expressions are offered: Usquaebach Reserve ($40), which only uses Highland single malts and grain whiskies, with a majority of the blend composed of 16-, 17- and 18-year-old whiskies. Usquaebach 15 Year Blended Malt ($80), a 100% malted whisky—with absolutely no grain whiskies—and using single malts ranging from 15 to 18 years in age. Usquaebach Old Rare ($120), a premium artisanal whisky, with an 85% malt content (the highest of any blended Scotch in this price category) and comprised of 41 single malts with an average age of 20 years. Bottled in an earthenware flagon, fewer than 4,000 are produced each year, and its guarded recipe has remained unchanged since 1877. "It's important to our blender to craft each whisky so that it stands alone and speaks for itself," says Judson. "The Reserve is a workhorse—you can sip it, stir it, shake it or water it down. Our goal was to create an entry-level blend that tasted much more complex. The younger grains brighten up the front end, while the full-bodied malts create a profound finish. The 15 Year Blended Malt is an homage to Sherry cask–aged Highland single malts. It's a muscular whisky soft on peat and heavy on nuts and sweetness, while Old Rare is a classic with a passionate cult following. This is Scotch fashioned the way quality blends used to be made over 100 years ago. The strength presents itself immediately, but the finish is elegant and graceful." And as for the sometimes intimidating Usquaebach name, when introducing these whiskies to consumers, Judson has turned this into a positive experience. "I find that the mispronunciation of Usquaebach is part of the unique conversation opportunities the brand provides," he says. "I love to hear customers try their best, and then I gently educate them and talk about the brand's long Gaelic history and its link to the word whisky. It's a great way to engage Scotch newbies." Plus, they'll end up knowing how to speak at least one Scottish Gaelic word. And a most important one at that. Marlon Paltoo, Whisky Buyer for Park Avenue Liquors in Midtown New York, stocks the the 15 Year Old and the Old Rare flagon at his store. Park Avenue Liquor's Profitable LESSONS IN WHISKYSPEAK Family-owned Park Avenue Liquors, which first opened in 1933 and recently relo- cated to larger facilities at 270 Madison Ave in Midtown New York, is a "must see, stop and shop" destination for any Scotch whisky aficionado. Having a vast array of single malts is to be expected, but the depth of Park Avenue's commitment to blended Scotch is apparent by the fact that the store stocks approximately 90 different brands, including Usquaebach. The whisky's unique name and rich history are what initially attracted Marlon Paltoo, Whisky Buyer for Park Avenue Liquors, to Usquaebach. "I stock two of their expressions," says Paltoo, "the 15 Year Old and the Old Rare flagon . . . the flagon sells the most, partly due to its iconic packaging. There are consumers who have known the brand for years, and there are others who are trying it for the first time at whisky events, private tastings, or possibly recognizing the bottle from their father's bar."