Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/580744
82 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015 Bokisch Vineyards owner/grower Markus Bokisch first came to Lodi during the early 1990s to source grapes for Joseph Phelps Vineyards' Vin du Mistral program. Enthralled by the region, he transplanted himself after purchasing his first parcel of virgin land, which has since grown to over 2,000 acres of planted grapes, in multiple vineyards located in six of Lodi's sub-appellations. Bokisch Vineyards now supplies over 50 wineries with some 40 varieties, including grapes in biggest demand (Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, etc.), as well as specialty Spanish grapes (such as Albariño, Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano), for which Bokisch is especially well known. According to Mr. Bokisch, Lodi grows an enormous range of wine grapes (over 100 varieties) because it can. As he tells us: What I love about Lodi is that it offers vineyardists and winemakers free - dom to create wines without having to worry about the constraints of location. If you're in Napa, the economics dictate Cabernet; in Carneros, it's Chardonnay; Paso Robles is associated with Rhône and Bordeaux varieties. But in Lodi, the picture has yet to be painted. It's still wide open. We planted Iberian, French and German varietals, all with equal success. This freedom of direction is due, in part, to historic Lodi's ability to redefine itself. Starting predominantly with table grapes in the 19th century, Lodi transitioned through Prohibition into a grape packing-house industry for home winemakers across the country. The era of Zinfandel was soon fol - lowed by the transition to Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet in the 1990s. Most recently we have seen an explosion of different varieties and winemaking styles – from the delicate aromatics of Picpoul to the robust, gripping muscularity of Tannat. This constant redefining of what Lodi has to offer is a direct result of the cooperative and cohesive spirit of the area's growers. This newfound freedom could not be possible were if not for the area's moderating climate and varied soils. Lodi's Delta breezes originate from the Pacific and cool us down every night. With regard to soils, Lodi's seven distinct AVAs range from cobbled slopes, the volcanic clay loams of the Foothills, to the organic, peat soils found in the Delta. In Lodi you find almost every possible combination of climate and soils appropriate to distinct grape varieties. Markus Bokisch (Bokisch Vineyards) on Lodi's Newfound Freedom Markus and Liz Bokisch at their 2015 Albariño harvest.