The SOMM Journal

October / November 2015

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  83 McCay Cellars winemaker/owner Michael McCay is a contemporary-style, wine geek's winemaker. He specializes in minimalist-style old-vine Zinfandel, utilizing native-yeast fermentation and less obtrusive French oak to emphasize sensory qualities unique to vineyards rather than expression of "varietal character." Most of what has motivated McCay has to do with the fact that Lodi does have a lot of vineyards that naturally express earthy qualities, which typically pop out of the gentle, lush fruit framework characteristic of Lodi-grown Zinfandel. As McCay tells us: Lodi has one of California's best climates for producing wine grapes, especially Zinfandel and Rhônes. But Lodi is also like an archeologist's dream—like walking through Rome. The region is filled with hidden vineyards that are like gems—each one waiting to be uncovered, right under our feet. We're talking about heritage plantings, many of them over 75 or 100 years old—vineyards that have been disap- pearing into the 100-ton fermenters of the big boys for decades. Every year I am working with two or three of these "new" vineyards, which actually have been around forever; we just never noticed them before. Often it's the case of a new generation of farmers taking over, who want to see their family properties finally get the credit they deserve. And people are dying to taste them—the overwhelming success of the Lodi Native project [native yeast–fermented single-vineyard Zinfandels by multiple winemakers] is evidence of that. We're finding single-vineyard Zinfandels which share similar themes of bright, elegant fruit—and in the process, discovering the true, overall Lodi character. Yet each of these old-vine Zinfandels is different. I take it as our job to identify these sites, learn how to farm each one to bring out its personality, and do as little as possible to them in the winery. It's an exciting, ongoing process! Craig Rous (Rous Vineyard) on Lodi's "Personal Touch" Craig Rous is a longtime Lodi grower with a day job as Director of Operations and Planning for Bear Creek Winery (a bulk wine processor). His own ten-acre Rous Vineyard consists of Zinfandel on St. George rootstock, originally planted in 1909 in the beach sand–like soils of the east side of Lodi's Mokelumne River AVA. Single vineyard bottlings of Rous Vineyard Zinfandel by wineries like Macchia Wines and Ironstone Vineyards are among the deep - est and spiciest in the state, yet also round and flowery, in a style increasingly recognized as Lodi typicity. These wines have a nuanced complexity and frank, easy accessibility that, according to Mr. Rous, also reflects Lodi's historic differences. Says Rous: We can go on and on about warm days, cool nights, sandy soils, and a plethora of old vines. But when you think about it, Lodi is practically the only wine region on the West Coast where, wherever you go, you always find yourself talking to owners and winemakers rather than winery employees. Personal touch makes a difference. In most cases, owners are the winemakers in Lodi, and they also grow the grapes. It's like Napa Valley was, 40, 50 years ago. We are a large wine region, but within a comparatively small, tight community, with direct connections between winemakers and grapes. Our winemakers and owners are out in the vineyard more than in other wine regions. We live among the vines, and so we are in tune with what's going on, winter, spring, sum- mer and fall. And in Lodi, it's usually a relationship that goes way back – in many cases, for well over 100 years. Michael McCay with Lodi Zinfandel. Michael McCay (McCay Cellars) on Lodi's Ongoing "Excavations" Craig Rous directs the 2014 Zinfandel harvest.

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