Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/580744
56 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015 C M Y CM MY CY CMY K Tempranillo, cool temperatures are required. "But to get higher sugar lev- els and thick skins for color, you need heat. In Spain these two opposites are best reconciled in the high altitude of the Ribera del Duero." Under these extreme conditions, Tempranillo grapes (locally known as Tinto Fino or Tinta del Pais) struggle for water, sending roots deep down to the bedrock. Growth is stunted, and old vines stoop like gnarly sentinels across the landscape, requiring little or no training and trellising. Vine density averages 1,200 per acre, and harvest—la vendimia—typically occurs in mid-October. Oros says that Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero is unlike anywhere else in Spain, due to the extreme conditions. "Here it yields small berries with tougher skins, and the wines are full-bodied and powerful, with deep violet hues and flavors of black forest fruits, plums, cherry and licorice." Because of the Ribera del Duero's unique terroir and extreme condi - tions, Oros mused that the region could be called the Burgundy of Spain. "There are so many styles and expressions of character from one grape," she explained. "That is why we are proud to say we produce 'Wines with Altitude.' " Bodegas Portia manages 160 hectares (395 acres) of Tinto Fino vines, primarily on eastern and southern facing slopes in the Roa, Gumiel de Izán, Villanueva and Gumiel de Mercado areas. Its first U.S. release, the appropriately named 2004 Portia Prima ("Portia," derived from Latin, refers to an offering, or gift of the land), debuted in 2007 and is currently distributed in most states. In the New York area, Portia Ebeia Roble is served at The Manor in West Orange, NJ; Mompou Tapas Bar in Newark, NJ; and The Smith-Lincoln Square in Manhattan. Bodegas Portia is imported by Palm Bay International. Tasting Notes Portia 2014 Ebeia Roble, Ribera del Duero ($15) "Ebeia" references a small hill, and the striking label recalls topography maps and rings in a cross-section of wood. Aged for four months in American oak, this 100 percent Tempranillo is taught, juicy and zesty on the nose with bright red berries, balsamic and spicy char notes, and a hint of sweet vanilla. The palate delivers freshness on an elegant framework marked by smooth tannins, bright acidity and pleasant flavors of red currant and raspberry, followed by roasted buttered almonds and mocha on the finish. Portia 2012 Crianza, Ribera del Duero ($25) Tight and nervous at first, with air this 100 percent Tempranillo opens to reveal focused aromas of wild blackberry, currant, blueberry and licorice, neatly laced with toasty vanilla and subtle dark notes of molasses, scorched stones, and sweet spices. On the palate, vibrant black raspberry compote, roasted plums, and pleasant oak saddle a smooth structure of fine tannins and persist for several enjoyable minutes. Matured one year in a mix of French and American oak, followed by an additional six months bottle aging. Portia 2011 Triennia, Ribera del Duero ($77) Produced from select estate-grown fruit, this luxurious wine is fermented and aged in new French oak for 12 months, followed by malolactic fermentation, racking, and maturing for an additional 15 months in fresh barrels. Opulent, bold and complex with a deep cherry hue, the nose conveys rich notes of blackberries and juicy plums, licorice, cappuccino and chocolate dust. Round and concentrated on the palate, with ripe black fruits, cherry compote, plum skins, molasses and warm baking spices. The finish is smooth, contemplative and distinctly decadent. Limited to 5,000 bottles. The impressive bottle-aging hall at Bodegas Portia.