Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/552044
88 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015 88 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015 N icholas Miller wryly noted "I'm not an MS, but a BS," at the onset of the "Fashion and Evolution of Chardonnay" panel. Regardless, the fifth-generation farmer from the fam- ily that owns and cultivates Bien Nacido Vineyards was an ideal moderator to guide us through the vast and sometimes contentious subject matter of the discussion that took place in Avila Beach, CA. As we sat down to a lineup of stunning Chardonnays, our panelists—Brian Talley, owner of Talley Vineyards; Vidal Perez, winemaker of J. Wilkes Winery; Katie Madigan, winemaker at St. Francis Winery & Vineyards; Michael Eckstein, winemaker at Grgich Hills Winery; and Bo Felton, winemaker for Migration and Duckhorn Wine Company—took the stage. With the words "fashion" and "evolution" floating about, it was only a matter of time before "style, trends and market" joined the conversation as hot-button topics. "Chardonnay makes the world's greatest white wine," declared Brian Talley, as we nosed and sipped the Talley Vineyards 2013 Estate Chardonnay, "It can be as terroir-driven as Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir, if handled with respect." While his wine in the tasting was a beautiful example of a "classic, Old World approach," it wasn't long before a member of the audience asked about the tendencies towards no oak, stainless steel Chardonnays. "We make an un-oaked Chardonnay," Talley answered. "We noticed a clear trend and interest in austere Chard." "Also, we want to sell our wines," Vidal interjected with a smile. "So we listen to our sales team. If they think they can sell it, we will try to make it!" And indeed, his J. Wilkes 2012 Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay was bursting with Granny Smith apple, bright acidity and honeysuckle. "Chardonnay is going through a perpetual identity crisis," chuckled Katie Madigan. "Just going to the grocery store is an overwhelming expe- rience! Chardonnay is such a saturated market, but California is honing in on being more appel- lation-based. Consumers are becoming more and more able to rest on knowledge of appel- lation and consistency of regional style when choosing their wines." While the panelists did agree on a number of topics—the fact that Chardonnay should be planted in cooler climates, a general aversion to screwcap closure in wines that should age, and the opinion that "those who don't like Chardonnay, haven't had a good one yet"— each of their wines was as different as the places from whence they came. Madigan's St. Francis Winery & Vineyards 2013 Sonoma County Chardonnay with a nose of tropical fruit and round, smooth mouthfeel; the power and structure of the Grgich Hills Winery 2012 "Miljenko's Selection" Chardonnay; the focused richness and yellow apple notes of the Migration 2013 Russian River Valley Chardonnay. As the discussion circled back to the paradox of the consumer's love/hate relationship with Chardonnay, Felton took a stand. "I dis- agree with the thought that Chard is only made by what is 'done' to it. Winemaking, even with Chardonnay, starts in the vineyard. A wine should not lose its sense of place once it gets to the cellar." When asked what they thought could be the one most impor- tant factor for the future and success of Chardonnay, Eckstein voiced the hope shared by the entire room: "An educated and knowledgeable consumer." Exploring the Past, Present and Future of Chardonnay by Karen Moneymaker Our panelists for the Fashion and Evolution of Chardonnay seminar. (left to right) Vidal Perez, winemaker of J. Wilkes Winery; Katie Madigan, winemaker at St. Francis Winery & Vineyards; Brian Talley, owner of Talley Vineyards; Michael Eckstein, winemaker at Grgich Hills Winery; and Bo Felton, winemaker for Migration and Duckhorn Wine Company. Nicholas Miller fifth- generation farmer from the family that owns and cultivates Bien Nacido Vineyards and moderator of the panel. 88 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015 St. Francis Winery & Vineyards 2013 Sonoma County Chardonnay, Grgich Hills Winery 2012 "Miljenko's Selection" Chardonnay, J. Wilkes 2012 Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay, Migration 2013 Russian River Valley Chardonnay , Talley Vineyards 2013 Estate Chardonnay.