The SOMM Journal

August / September 2015

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  87 { SOMMjournal.com } 87 { SOMMjournal.com }  87 Winemaker Joe Ibrahim of Edna Valley Vineyards presented his Edna Valley Vineyards 2012 Central Coast Chardonnay. "This region offers the longest growing season in California, just seven miles from the Pacific. The grapes hold their acidity and delicate flavors arise." The fruit-generous nose of pears and McIntosh apples are refined in a waxy, dry palate. Honeyed cantaloupe and clay minerality show against a stunning vibrancy. Karen Moneymaker Senior Editor of The SOMM Journal Magazine Jessie Birschbach Sommelier at Spago Beverly Hills, California Sean van Straatum Assistant F&B Director at L'Ermitage in Beverly Hills, California Andrew Coffou, Sommelier at La Bottega in Vail, Colorado Anthony Lerner Sommelier at Mastro's Beverly Hills, California Dan Vogel Head Sommelier at Café Kandahar in Whitefish, Montana Smiley Quick Wine Specialist at Vendome in Toluca Lake, California Chuck Herrold Beverage Director at Loews Coronado Bay Resort, California John Hughes Sommelier at Juliette Kitchen and Bar, Newport Beach, California Nadia Pavlevska Wine Director at Darren's in Manhattan Beach, California Robin Puricelli Wine Director at Dolphin Bay Resort & Spa in Shell Beach, California Robert Bath, MS, pointed to the bottle of Cuvaison Estate Chardonnay and claimed Carneros as one of the regional pioneers of the variety. Winemaker Steve Rogstad has overseen 14 vintages for Cuvaison and this 2013, produced in a warmer year, exhibits an array of flavors and textures: ripeness with a base of tapi- oca, brown butter, white tea, magnolia creaminess, lemon curd and nectarine. Next up, a salad featuring local roasted beets with goat cheese mousse and cilantro oil, presented its own set of wine pairing challenges, in this case, relatively subtle, earthy flavors and a slight sweetness from the beets. In stepped the Edna Valley Paragon Vineyard Chardonnay, produced from grapes grown right out- side our luncheon venue at Edna Valley Vineyards. The wine's ripe, rich fruit, harmonious acidity and balanced oak lifted this salad into another dimension of gustatory delight. The Dalrymple Cave Block Chardonnay from Tasmania was also a complete success with this salad and probably represented the most versatile/suc- cessful wine with all of the dishes that day. The main course, sous-vide–prepared salmon with fennel pollen, didn't present as many wine pairing challenges, yet required a wine that could stand up to the assertive, complex flavors of this dish. In this case, the dramatic character of the Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay from Margaret River and the classic ripe, forward fruit of the Cuvaison Estate Chardonnay from Carneros made both wines worthy partners. The firm structure of both wines, derived from oak aging, combined with the depth and character of grapes from older vineyards, were key elements in the success of the pairing. Kathy Marlin, Managing Director of Negociants USA, showcased Dalrymple 2012 Cave Block from Tasmania. This wine had won the Somm's Choice Award at our blind tasting the night before. Planted on slopes with large, volcanic rocks and no irrigation, it's whole bunch–pressed and 100% wild-fermented with partial ML. Acidity races through its spine. Peaches, ginger, chamomile, celery and apricot are just some of the notes that perform in the juicy, clean and honey-crisp wine. Karen Moneymaker Andrew Coffou Smiley Quick Nadia Pavlevska

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