The Tasting Panel magazine

August 2015

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august 2015  /  the tasting panel  /  93 What do you think of the new generation of wine consumers? I believe that young people today are fascinated by wine, and especially wine with food. They are curious about the history, the varieties and the regions. And they are pairing them with new generations of cuisine. Here we are in Napa Valley on top of Atlas Peak. It is a perfect day in the perfect place. How did you find this magic spot? Yes, we have another celebration this year. This is the 30th year that we have been on this beautiful site, and, now, vineyard. We partnered with Whitbread to find a site in California to develop; they weren't in the wine busi- ness so they asked me for help. I looked at many properties that were available but wasn't convinced that any of them had the qualities I was seeking. On the last day before I left, I was brought to this valley and immediately fell in love with it. I had a feeling about the potential, but most of all, I felt at home! The hills, the elevation, the rocks—I felt that what we have here was the right place to make great wine. But there really wasn't much here at the time was there? Correct—oh, there were many risks. Most of all, the spring frost was a great concern. And of course, water. I was convinced, and they purchased the land and we took a small position along with the Bollinger Champagne company. So what was the first portion of the development? That was easy. We immediately constructed a large reservoir that could address our concerns about frost and irrigation. We have realized over the years that risk of frost from the valley floor was very different from ours, and we now have a significant water supply. In the current conditions in California we are most fortunate. Ah, here is my old friend Glenn Salva, head of all operations here at Antica. What a pleasure! Glenn has been here since the beginning and was the associate of Dr. Richard Peterson, the original mind behind the project. Let's taste this beautiful Antica Chardonnay from the estate, a 200-case production from an original block planted in 1988. Superb! Yes, Glenn and I are very proud of this wine. It has perfect balance and demonstrates the potential for Chardonnay from our high eleva- tion plateau at the base Atlas Peak Mountain. It is 100 percent new oak, yet it doesn't show it. We are calling this wine A26, which happens to be the name of the vineyard block where the grapes were harvested, and coinciden- tally represents my family now being in the wine business for 26 generations. I worked on the Atlas Peak Vineyard Project a decade ago. We were mainly working on Sangiovese. This has certainly changed now! We had a dream. We planted 80 acres of Sangiovese to start, and it was by far the largest planting in California. I would venture that it was the largest planting all totaled in the USA. (Laughing) Fred, I think you are cor- rect. And more likely outside Tuscany itself! We discovered that Sangiovese is far more temperamental here than in Chianti. We now have only two small parcels left, of just about six acres. I remember selling it and eventu- ally realizing that the Tuscans could do it better for half the price. I loved the wine, but that two or three century head start they got in Italy gave us fits. Glenn Salva: I agree. We tried to make Sangiovese as a 100 percent vari- etal and no one does that. We realized that blending the wine, very much like Bordeaux, was the secret to success. Hey, we gave it our best shot! And now, you are making some outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon. Like your neighbors to the north on Pritchard Hill and across the valley at Stagecoach. Piero Antinori: Yes, the high elevation and the rocky, volcanic soils make a wonderful terroir to grow and produce Cabernet Sauvignon. This has been a huge advantage in the production of world-class Cabernet Sauvignon. Dick was also correct in building the 35,000 square feet of caves here in the moun- tain, as the temperature and humidity are perfect for aging the wine when in barrel. Piero, I know that you have the patience to continue to improve and grow. When I first glimpsed this property in the beginning, I knew that you and your family were the perfect stewards to create this world-class wine. My compliments. Thank you, Fred. We have a great confidence for the future. We are not in a hurry as you can see. We still sell the majority of our grapes as we continue to find the perfect sites for Antica. We will continue to build a sound founda- tion for the brand. Glenn Salva, head of all operations at Antica Winery. Antica Chardonnay.

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