Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/551222
august 2015 / the tasting panel / 87 THE PRODIGY: ENRICO CERULLI Cerulli Spinozzi's Cortalto Pecorino and Torre Migliori Montepulciano di Abruzzo Colline Teramane The first thing we probably all noticed about family proprietor Enrico Cerulli of Cerulli Spinozzi is his adorable sandy-blonde mop of curls. Which doesn't mean that this bright- eyed, charming young man should be taken any less seriously. In fact, his family's lineage dates back generations in Abruzzo, and his mission was clear: to elevate the Montepulciano. When most of us think of the ripe and tannic Montepulciano d' Abruzzo, we think value, and it's no surprise that it's Italy's second most planted grape. But Cerulli's berries are coming more specifically from Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane, a DOCG in the heart of Abruzzo; established in 2002, it requires an elevated minimum of 90% Montepulciano and two years of aging with a minimum of one year in wood. (Montepulciano d'Abruzzo requires 85%.) It's a much smaller area in comparison to Abruzzo, but the Cerulli's own 247 acres of this land, which accounts for 10% of the DOCG. This enables them to bring forth their finest effort, Torre Migliori, made with 100% DOCG Montepulciano. The Cerulli's have engaged Franco Bernabei, one of Italy's top consulting winemakers to work with their on-site winemaker, Nereo Ianni. Small lots of hand picked grapes are fermented on skin up to 18 days, and then aged according to Italian law at their gravity-flow winery. Enrico also revealed the Pecorino "Coralto" Colli Aprutini IGT. Cerulli feels that, "Pecorino has many characteristics close to Vermentino—acidity and minerality, with the influence of these mountains so close to the ocean." Cortalto is the name of the single vineyard this Pecorino comes from in Colli Aprutini, Abruzzo. The wine is 100% Pecorino and goes through malolactic fermentation after being fermented in stainless steel, and then is aged on lees for five months. The Somms Speak Cortalto Pecorino There is an overall freshness to the wine in essence of Granny Smith apple, underripe pear, wilted dill, fresh chervil and white button mushroom. —Sean Van Straatum Grapefruit, tart lime peel notes with a clean mineral background. Really terroir-driven wine—I might drink this all summer! —Jenna Webster Torre Migliori Montepulciano di Abruzzo Colline Teramane Beautiful, silky big boy; bold but graceful, black fruit, Italian herbs, dusty tan- nins, dried raisins, cassis. —Meridith May Aromas of rose petal and a cherry tree; notes of licorice and fig with a full body, but not too jammy. —Jenna Webster Frascati Superiore extends to a mix of modern and traditional winemak- ing styles, using a blend of Malvasia di Candia (50%), Malvasia del Lazio (30%), Greco (10%), Bombino (10%), all of which come from wise old vines averaging 50 years of age. The Somms Speak 2013 Terre dei Grifi Frascati Sweet, strong, creamy, with linen and magnolia; white peach and lanolin. —Meridith May Clear, daybright gold; nose exhibits a mélange of ripe fruit, including pineapple, peach and pear; on the palate, the wine is quite dry with a pleasant touch of phenolic bitterness. —Joel Caruso 2011 Luna Mater Frascati Superiore Nutty, almost Sherry-like nose with cured lemon, bruised apples and a hint of salinity; on the palate, the fruit notes are rounded by golden apple and peaches with a light honeyed almond note. —Catherine Morel Pale gold, slightly dried or baked pear on the nose. Palate offers honey, hazelnut, medium plus body and mineral- ity. —Phillip Dunn The Somms Speak 2011 Cuvée Aurora Rosé Alta Langa Slight effervescence on floral notes of pink roses and jasmine; texture is smooth and the mousse expressive. —Sean Van Straatum Stone fruit and strawberry nose; dry and tart with moderate plus acid, tart dried red fruit with slight green pepper. Would be good with sharp cheese, almonds and smoked salmon. —Brad Stewart La Lus Albarossa Ruby red, with a nose of olive, thyme and bell peppers; licorice and jammy fruit; love it. —Umut Kisa Concentrated, very aromatic with sweet cherry, vanilla bean, raisin; dark chocolate, red clay, sour cherry and blackberry. I thought maybe dolcetto, but the tannins were higher than usual for that varietal. A very complex wine. —Jenna Webster Enrico Cerulli is family proprietor at Cerulli Spinozzi.