The SOMM Journal

December 2014/January 2015

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Page 29 of 119

30 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2014/2015 { by the glass } WHEN A STEAKHOUSE IN CARNIVORE-CRAZED Chicago gets a top ranking from a local restaurant critic, the award isn't based solely on whether meat is wet-aged or dry-aged, or if it has the most turned tables on a Saturday night. The market is so saturated with steak, it's as if the Chicago River is flowing with au jus. But David Burke's Primehouse is a standout mostly because of a forward-thinking sommelier, and his embrace of the Coravin Wine Access System. The Coravin allows for pouring any amount of wine without pulling the cork, and prevents oxidation from affecting what remains in the bottle. Primehouse's enthralled customers—rather than eating, drinking and running—are sticking around to experiment. Matthew Bills, Certified Sommelier, directs Primehouse's wine program. He was instantly transfixed by the Coravin, and knew his customers would have the same reaction. Within a month, he secured the device for the restaurant. The timing was ideal: the Drawing on Opportunity THE CORAVIN DELIVERS MORE THAN WINE AT DAVID BURKE'S PRIMEHOUSE IN CHICAGO by Tom Caestecker, Jr. / photos by Jacob Hand Primehouse Chicago Sommelier Matthew Bills utilizes the Coravin Wine Access System to highlight his Cellar Glass Pour program, a list of about a dozen rare and high-demand wines. Matthew Bills outfits his Coravin with a Vintage Cork Needle—designed for older corks—to pour the 1999 Fisher Coach Insignia Cabernet Sauvignon.

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