The Tasting Panel magazine

September 2011

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ROAD TRIP in Spain, and in 1991 the region was named a DOC (Denominación de Origen Calificada), with more refined regional laws, one of only two DOCs in Spain. (Priorat is the other.) Valdubón The Valdubón winery in Ribera del Duero follows the course of the Duero River, with vineyards on upland slopes of the northern plateau of the Iberian Peninsula. The altitudes of the vine- yards vary from 1,700 to 2,400 feet, and the region is harsh and dry with a short growing season. Valdubón vineyards are planted entirely with Tempranillo, which, in this extreme climate, pro- duces a grape of great power, spicy character and richly concentrated fruit. Valdubón offers three wonderful expressions of Tempranillo—Cosecha, Crianza and Reserva—the main difference is the time spent in oak. Cosecha is the region's designation for its youngest wines. "From vine to bottle in under six months!" boasts Valdubón winemaker Javier Aladro, referring to the Valdubón 2009 Cosecha (SRP $15). Following fermentation and rack- ing, the wine is oak barreled for only four to five months. The Cosecha is a big mouthful of flavor with a fleshy youthfulness, rounding to the taste, full 120 / the tasting panel / september 201 1 of ripe fruit and long aftertaste. The Valdubón 2003 Crianza (SRP $18) is also made from 100% Tempranillo but is aged for 14 months in 34% American and 66% French oak. The wine jumpstarts the palate with a lively pep and finishes with red fruit intensity. The 30-year-old Tempranillo vineyards used for the Valdubón 2004 Reserva (SRP $24) produce grapes with great concentration and exceptional aromatic potential. The wine is aged for 22 months in oak, 50% in American and 50% in French and 23 months in the bottle before release. Intense garnet red with a complex and spicy nose, the wine is rich in ripe fruits. The Reserva shows firm tannins, age ability and personality. A perfect pairing with Iberian ham! VAZA Spain's best-known wine district, Rioja, is experiencing a richly deserved renaissance. The wine laws of Rioja are some of the oldest in the world. In 1925, Rioja became the first DO The last two decades of experimenta- tion with more modern techniques have resulted in a surge of quality. "Some new trends in Rioja are the use of French and American oak. Consumers like the more fruit-forward modern styles," says Master Sommelier Charlie Arturaola, who is along on the tour. "The wineries with these modern styles will help Rioja return to the frontline, where Rioja belongs." This large region, stretching 75 miles along the Ebro River, is divided into three sub-regions: Rioja Alavesa is higher in altitude, has a very moderate climate and produces a very fruit- forward wine; Rioja Alta is much drier and produces a grape with high acidity; and Rioja Baja to the east experiences a more severe climate and produces a grape with bold concentration. The VAZA winery is situated along- side the medieval city of Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa and sources grapes from only this prestigious sub-region. VAZA, which means, "new beginning" in Spanish, represents these newer techniques along with the country's rich history. "The VAZA Cosecha is a great deal, fun both on the palate and price-wise," comments Charlie Arturaola. "I found a hint of that new trend, a great inky dry red wine with so

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