Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/391696
{ SOMMjournal.com } 69 What do you enjoy most about Faith & Flower? Two things. The first is the chance of lifetime to work with true professionals in both front and back of the house. Everyone here bleeds food and beverage, and in Los Angeles this is usually not the case. The part-time actor/model/dancer/ whatever attitude does not reflect the mentality that fosters a first-class operation. We have none of that. The second would be the camaraderie among our staff. It's definitely something to marvel at. Whether you are a waiter or a dish-washer everyone is one big family and treated with respect. We are lucky to have complete synergy between front and back of the house. In a few words, describe Chef Michael Hung's cuisine here at Faith & Flower. Creativity, focus and execution. Speaking about creativity, focus and execution, I notice you're a big fan of bubbles and your list features pre - dominantly small production and grower producers. Shall we try a few? I thought you'd never ask! The first will be from Champagne Philippe Gonet, a MV Blanc de Blanc Brut from Le-Mesnil-sur- Oger in the Côte des Blancs. Now this is a true family affair. The estate is run by the seventh-generation brother and sister team of Pierre and Chantal Gonet. It is crafted from a variety of Champagne parcels and Gonet considers this to be their signature cuvée. Half of the Chardonnay comes from 13 grand cru parcels in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and the remaining 50% comes from six par - cels in Montgueux, the "grand cru" of the Aube. This cuvée usually spends thr ee years on the lees, which lends to the fine-textured effervescence and balance on the palate. Their total production, for all of their offerings, is only around 200,000 bottles. This is delicious. Lots of tension, laser-like focus, racy minerality and a long, lingering finish. The terroir is at the forefront of this bottling. This is going to be hard to fol - low. What could possibly be next? N ow, let's take it to the opposite end of the spectrum. The second is from Champagne Alfred Gratien. This is their MV Brut Classique. These guys are a mere 13 miles to the north in Épernay. Nicolas Jaeger, fourth generation, personally oversees grape selection, winemaking, blending and the aging regimen. It's a blend of the three classic grapes: 46% Chardonnay (Côte des Blancs), 29% Pinot Noir (Montagne de Reims) and 25% Pinot Meunier (Valée de la Marne). This "micro-négoç" is quite unique in that all of their base wines spend at least six months in small 228-liter oak casks. Absolutely no malolactic fermentation here. It also spends three years aging on the lees. Their total produc - tion is around 250,000 bottles. Wow, what a difference from the first! Comparatively, this is definitely a richer, more broad-shouldered, mas- culine style of Champagne. It's quite full-bodied and complex. How are these types of Champagne doing in the "Wild West" also known as Downtown Los Angeles? Pretty darn good! I am very fortunate to have a supporting cast that embraces these artisanal Champagnes and in turn, relay their passion to our customers. Every table is touched every night. If this was not the case, these wines would be lost in the shuffle. Do you find these "small production" Champagnes ver - satile? Yes I do. Stylistically, these "against the grain" producers offer up something in the glass that is completely different from what most people are used to. The unique flavor profiles and textures pair marvelously with a myriad of food options: oysters, fowl, red meat. The trick is to get the customer to take a chance on something that they may not have initially even been interested in to begin with. Don't be afraid to take the path less taken, there are many new and wonderful things ahead. Agreed. I think it's time to continue my stroll down that path. Cheers! Champagne Alfred Gratien is a "micro-négoce" and all of their base wines spend at least six months in small 228-liter oak casks. Q: Q: Q: Q: Q: Q: Q: