Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/391696
{ SOMMjournal.com } 61 Another typical pairing for Port that still has a support base from operators is teaming it up with cigars. In classic steakhouse settings, such as Seattle's El Gaucho, Port is still a favorite with cigars, according to Chad Mackay, President and COO of the five-restaurant and one boutique hotel El Gaucho Hospitality. Cocktail a Go-Go Another big trend, among a handful of sommeliers, is using Port as a cocktail component to lower alcohol levels and increase a drink's savory flavors. "Our bartenders like to make drinks with them," says Master Sommelier Emily Wines, Wine Director at San Francisco–based Kimpton Hotels and Restaurants, who oversees 67 properties all over the country, 90 percent of which serve Port. At some of Kimpton's properties, Wines says that Port often replaces vermouth in some cocktails. "Ruby Port in a Manhattan or tawny Port in a Negroni is actually quite delicious." In New York City at the ESqaured Hospitality—which oversees brands like BLT Steak New York—Beverage Director Alex Berlingeri says his Mexican outlet in the West Village, Horchata, offers a Port cocktail called Smokey the Bear, made with mezcal, Aperol and lemon Chilling Ports and serving them in a regular wine glass also appeals to restaurant guests, according to Jorge Dias, CEO of the Porto-based Gran Cruz Group Port house. He adds that, "Consumers are also really happy to see new styles," many of which, such as rosé and dry white Ports, lend themselves to use in cocktails. There is also potential for on-the-rocks consumption for both. Marketing Challenges Many classic and obscure Port producers have faced some taste-profile issues with the trade, as some Ports were perceived to be rough and earthy on the palate. Recent Ports I tasted on my last trip to the Douro were more fruit-forward and easy-drinking, and less funky and dirty. Many Port houses are unquestionably producing a more easily quaffable product as a long-term goal of their marketing plan. At Kimpton, Emily Wines agrees: "Overall the big change in Port is that it is cleaner." Production of high-quality, dry Port wines, over the last decade, has also helped to expose many more operators to the flavors of red grapes indigenous to the Douro— such as Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz—and flung wide the doors on the region's pairing potential. However, not all operators agree that dry Douro wines have helped the Port. "Portuguese wine is an area that our guests are exploring more and more," says El Gaucho's Mackay, which undoubtedly helps build bridges to Port as well. However not everyone is pleased about key growers and producers—such as Quinta do Crasto and Niepoort—using their top fruit for unfortified wines. Berlingeri in New York says that the growing number of good, dry Portuguese table wines has increased the cost of Port by reducing the affordability of the range of grapes used for its production. Some of the more traditional Port producers also aren't big fans of innovation, whether it is with cocktails or dry wines. While the "Pass the Port decanter" era is long over, and maybe never even reached its apex in the United States, many might like to see the region and its trade buyers continue to focus on the classics. The rugged and rural region hardly has the marketing budget of whisk(e)y, notes joint Managing Partner Rupert Symington, of the Porto-based Symington Family Estates, which includes Port producers Graham's, Warre's, Dow's, Cockburn's, Smith Woodhouse and Quinta do Vesuvio. What has driven Port sales over the years, Symington says, is the wines' quality and their provenance from a well-respected and difficult-to-harvest region. "Port Tonics taste all the same," Symington added, saying that the category's producers might benefit from focusing on end-of-the-day consumption and the classic sip of Port before bed. Tawnies, he shares, also have great appeal for the on-premise sector because they can be open for several days before they oxidize. The options for the Port industry to move forward in promoting its product are myriad. Some will take the classic road of focusing on great vintages and classic pairings, while others are more than happy see it jazz up an innovative cocktail. PHOTO COURTESY OF SYMINGTON FAMILY ESTATES Taylor Fladgate CEO and Managing Partner Adrian Bridge. Master Sommelier Emily Wines is Wine Director for San Francisco–based Kimpton Hotels and Restaurants. PHOTO COURTESY OF TAYLOR FLADGATE PHOTO COURTESY OF KIMPTON HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS Rosé Ports are widen- ing the category and can be used in cocktails.