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New Releases from Trinchero Napa Valley WINEMAKER MARIO MONTICELLI’S second vintage of Trinchero Napa Valley wines were delivered to THE TASTING PANEL offi ces in early June. I was thrilled to have had the opportunity last year to taste Mario’s fi rst vin- tage of single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons with him at the winery in St. Helena, so I was antsy to open some bottles of Merlot (!) and dive into these dramatic ’08 reds and the new 2010 Mary’s Vineyard Sauv Blanc. “One of the great things about being family-owned and all-estate is that I have complete control in the vineyard and throughout the winemaking process,” Monticelli says. He gets pleasure from walking the vineyards and knows exactly when to harvest, determining optimum ripeness. His custom-built grape storage room allows the fruit to “literally chill-out overnight.” He thinks the ‘08s outdid the ‘07s. Here are my notes on a sampling of my favorites. —Meridith May Trinchero 2008 Daybreak Block Merlot, Napa Valley ($40) The Vista Montone Vineyard is in southern Napa, cooled by the San Pablo Bay; Daybreak Vineyard faces the rising sun. The soils are deep and chalky, and the tight-fi sted smacking tannins are more Cab-like than Merlot; but then a bright, ripe leanness comes to the fore and introduces itself as a black-fruited, Bordeaux- reminiscent Merlot. Midway, black pepper and a grilled meat tone meld with blackberries for a delish fi nish. 93 Trinchero 2008 Chicken Ranch Vineyard Merlot, Rutherford, Napa Valley ($40) Rich and ripe, with generosity and depth, it expresses some ancient heritage but says California, with a smattering of the iconic Rutherford dust up front. Espresso and brandied plums are just some of the highlights. But oh, the fruit! Played against a parade of savories—perhaps basil and olive—a march- ing band of fruit, from red cherry to cranberry, trumpets through with spicy bravado. 94 Trinchero 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Mary’s Vineyard, Calistoga – Napa Valley ($24) On fi rst nosing, I pictured all the pleasures from a pineapple upside-down cake: the tropical sweetness and the lemony cake batter notes. The actual fl avor profi le was a bit more linear—all stainless and no oak—still boasting a ripe pineapple, pretty fl oral hints and juice- squeezed citrus. Refreshing! 93 Trinchero is the fl agship label of Trinchero Family Estates. GUEST EDITOR Owner/Director Kate Webber confers with Chef Tom Fosnot at her restaurant, the Gibbet Hill Grill in Groton, MA. SUMMER GRILLING WINES August brings guests to our restaurants looking for dishes from our grill and our smoker. Here are some perfect grilling wines that work for us in the dining room and on the patio bar and will fi re up any backyard barbecue. —Kate Webber Santa Cristina 2010 Campogrande, Orvieto Classico, Italy ($14) A hot day wants a crisp wine for outdoor patios. Campogrande is the ultimate sipper with ripe apple, bright lemon and lime, and that faint Italian minerality to keep it clean and refreshing. This Antinori wine is good to start any outdoor party and continue drinking throughout the heat. For a special treat, try it with oysters. STE. MICHELLE WINE ESTATES Crios 2010 Rosé of Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($12) This dry rosé will satisfy any barbecue guest who doesn't drink red wine. Heavier than your typical white, this focused rosé has both red apple and strawberry notes with a touch of yellow plum skin and earthy spice. It will work with your grilled chicken and is a destined match for salmon dishes. We’ve found it works perfectly with lobster sliders as well. VINE CONNECTIONS Mitolo 2009 “Jester” Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia ($20) Juicy without being too cloying for the heat, this ripe Australian Shiraz delivers all the raspberry, sweet blackberry and pepper to match your pulled pork and sweet grill sauces. Elegantly made, it will make your food seem all the juicier. VINTUS Bacio Divino 2007 Pazzo, Napa Valley ($35) For those who throw the big Porterhouse on the fi re, Pazzo is a meaty wine to stand up to it. Filled with smoky fl avors, dark cherry and pepper, this wine will match your grilled or smoked heavy meats and loves an au poivre. The velvety tannins will meet the protein to make a perfect summer match for a classic steakhouse pairing. A blend of Sangiovese, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Viognier. august 201 1 / the tasting panel / 65