Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/348953
96 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2014 We finished this comparative tasting with a bottling representing a blend from Margarita's Monterey Shale and alluvial clay blocks: a pungently aromatic (cherry and root beer, with appealing notes of leafy pyrazine), compact, crisp and moderately weighted 2011 Ancient Peaks "Jackpot" Cabernet Sauvignon. The winery's reserve level red—the Cabernet Sauvignon dominated 2010 Ancient Peaks "Oyster Ridge Cuvée"—was even more intense and edgy with acid, oozing blueberry and lilac scented fruit; described by Jonathan Mitchell of Ocean Prime in Beverly Hills as "the most complex, terroir-driven wine of the trip." We also tasted a zesty, violet nuanced 2010 Ancient Peaks Petit Verdot, and the 2011 Ancient Peaks Merlot was a revelation of blueberry-plum pie, revved up by tingly acidity and a silky finish. Says Patrick Le Bras of Newport Beach Yacht Club, "I never knew Petit Verdot could do so well in California. The diversity we found at Ancient Peaks was simply mind-boggling." Day 3 – Biodynamic Morning, Vintners Panel Discussion and Idyllic Finish Our sommeliers had another 7:30 a.m. start on their final day, heading out into one of the cooler sub-sections of Paso Robles: the proposed Pasos Robles Willow Creek District, where Jada Vineyard & Winery is located. Sandwiched between the proposed Adelaida District to the north and the proposed Templeton Gap District to the south, Willow Creek consists of mountainous terroirs (elevations up to 1,900 feet), primarily calcareous loams and alluvial patches. Winemaker David Galzignato walked us through Jada's estate vineyard, which is farmed by Biodynamic guidelines. "Our vineyard does not look as manicured as some," said Galzignato; "welcome to the world of Biodynamic, where everything is treated like a living farm." Says Spreti Valente, "Jada was a highlight for me, dispelling a lot of misinformation I had heard previously about Biodynamic products." Adds Patrick Le Bras, "It was Galzignato's passion that impressed me—his attention to detail in the vineyard and the winery was reflected in the Jada wines, making me feel like things in Paso Robles are mov - ing in the right direction." Galzignato, in fact, exacts an obsessed meticulousness in all phases, from Biodynamic preparations to bottling, including foot-stomping of each and every cuvée, the use of custom- made screens covering small stainless steel open-top tanks to prevent any seeds from being racked to barrel, Jada's custom canvas tank covers that prevent the possibility of volatile acidity carried by fruit flies, and going to the center of France every other year to hand-pick oak staves for future barrels tagged for Jada's program. The result is an array of extremely delicate, almost cool-climate yet svelte, fili - greed, contemporary-style reds, such as the compellingly refined, rose petal and green leafy 2011 Jada "Passing By" (82% Cabernet Sauvignon with Petit Verdot and Merlot), and the seamless, bright and sweet new car leather–nuanced 2011 Jada "Jack of Hearts" (62% Petit Verdot with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot). After the visit to Jada, the sommeliers attended a Vintners Panel Discussion organized for other members of the trade and media by the Paso Robles CAB Collective. Daniel Daou, one of the founders of the PRCC, spoke out for the group: "The 'CAB' in CAB Collective also refers to 'Cabernet and Bordeaux' varieties. Our Cabernet Sauvignons don't taste like Napa's—we're not trying to be Napa, but probably more like Bordeaux because of the natural acidity and the minerality we get from our soil, which is unlike anything you find in Napa." Kevin Sass, the winemaker of Halter Ranch Vineyard, remarked on how the research that went into the 11 proposed sub-AVAs have helped to identify the ideal places to grow Bordeaux as well as Rhône, Spanish and Zinfandel grapes. "Personally I think the 11 proposed AVAs will be a good thing, as long we avoid Paul Coker, Sommelier at Stonehill Tavern, St. Regis Monarch Beach (Dana Point). ADELAIDA Winemaker Jeremy Weintraub demonstrating sulfuric acid reaction to calcareous rock in Viking Vineyard. PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO