Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/348953
{ SOMMjournal.com } 95 cally blends of multiple clones, sourced from the Creston District as well as non-estate plantings in the proposed Adelaida District, Paso Robles Estrella District, Paso Robles Geneseo District and Paso Robles Willow Creek District. Following a casual lunch on the plush lawn of Chateau Margene, we visited another classic Creston District growth: Parrish Family Vineyard, owned and farmed by Winemaker David Parrish. Even under the early afternoon's full sun, we could feel a cool breeze com - ing in from the Templeton Gap. While walking us through his Geneva Double Curtain quadrilateral trellised Cabernet Sauvignon vines (planted to ENTAV-INRA 337 as well as FPS Clones 04, 06 and 07), Parrish explained: "Paso Robles is a Goldilocks region—not too hot, not too cold—and we selected this site because it has just the right combination of calcareous [that word again!] soil and clay loam, which Cabernet Sauvignon likes. The split canopies help us tame the herba - ceousness natural to the grape." The proof was in the porridge: a pure, balanced, blackber- ryish focus in the 2010 Parrish Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon that we tasted in the vineyard—not too big, not too small. Then we took a curvy back road into the southernmost of the recently identified Paso Robles sub-regions: the proposed Santa Margarita Ranch AVA, where Ancient Peak Winery's spectacular Margarita Vineyard is located. Influenced by air movement coming in from both Morro Bay to the southwest and the Templeton Gap to the northwest, this is the coolest-climate corner of Paso Robles, with temperatures that are marginal for Bordeaux grapes—translating into the lower alcohol, higher acid profiles many sommeliers are seek - ing today. Margarita Vineyard is also planted on no less than five distinct soil types: a highly calcar- eous, white ancient sea bed; a flaky, crumbly Monterey Shale; a lean, low vigor, rocky allu- vium; piles of weathered, rocky granite; and a mix of higher ir on content volcanic deposits. After driving us through about a quarter of their five-mile-long vineyard, co-owner/ grower Doug Filipponi and winemaker Mike Sinor presented a fascinating 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon barrel tasting, allowing us to compare: ■ The flowery, almost strawberry-fresh, feminine, zesty, silky qualities of an FPS Clone 07 grown in Margarita's ancient sea bed block. ■ A darker, fleshier, black and blueberry toned ENTAV- INRA 337 grown in alluvial Diablo Series clay. ■ A plummy, tart-edgy, wild scrub/dried herb spice per- fumed FPS Clone 08 grown in calcareous Monterey Shale. Chateau Margene's Michael Mooney with somms Spreti Valente, CS and Anthony Lerner. The Creston District vineyards from which Parrish Family Vineyard sources its Geneva Double Curtain Cabernet Sauvignon. PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO Marine fossil from ancient sea beds affect the mineral taste profile in the wines from Ancient Peaks. Samples of the rocky alluvium soil at Ancient Peaks' Santa Margarita vineyard. White ancient sea bed off of Margarita Vineyard in the proposed Santa Margarita Ranch AVA.