Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/23459
FAMILY WINERIES SERIES Down Mexico Way I MONTE XANIC SETS THE PACE IN BAJA CALIFORNIA’S VALLE DE GUADALUPE by E. C. Gladstone f Mexico can have a Riviera, why not a Rhône, too? That was the question posed 22 years ago by Monte Xanic’s Dr. Hans Backoff, when he first began producing premium wines in Baja California’s Valle de Guadalupe, east of Ensenada. Today, Backoff is confident enough in the quality of his Monte Xanic [pronounced sha-NEEK] product to invite THE TASTING PANEL down to sample his own varietals alongside those of some 60 emerging neighbors. In line with the region’s growing tourist appeal, Monte Xanic’s cathe- dral-like facility sits atop recently completed wine caves carved into a granite hillside and faces a verdant pool. The winery even features an impressive open-air restaurant whose chef, a member of the Hussong’s Cantina family, is CIA-trained. After years of “learning things the hard way,” as Backoff jokes, he and his Bordeaux-educated son, Hans Jr., enlisted the help of viticulturist Kelly Maher (ex–Clos du Val) and consulting winemaker Scott McLeod. “The issue was trying to stylize the wine more than needed,” says McLeod, a champion of terroir. Newer vintages reflect their own personality rather than imitating the Northerners. Dense and juicy, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon finishes with a little tannin and a little wood. The ’09 Sauvignon Blanc yields fresh citrus but also savory tomatoey acids, excellent for pairing. And a new Cab/Merlot blend offers caramel, chocolate, pepper and tobacco notes, with a long finish. Xanic also makes respectable rosé, a brandy and a particularly strong Gran Ricardo reserve, not yet available in the U.S. “Valle de Guadalupe has been there for centuries,” says Backoff, “but it’s still a very young place.” With two decades under its belt, Monte Xanic is a rookie worth watching. Monte Xanic is imported by Via Pacific Imports. Monte Xanic’s cathedral-like facility in Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe. PHOTO COURTESY OF MONTE XANIC Founder Dr. Hans Backoff surveys the Monte Xanic vineyards. 44 / the tasting panel / january–february 201 1 PHOTO: KELLY DUCKHORN, COURTESY OF VIA PACIFICA