Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/23459
Jayson Lewellyn: I just do as I am told! We are fortunate to have an amazing concentration of professionals in house; I honestly do more listening than creating when it comes to spirits. The curve ball has been creating a menu that balances the bar and kitchen, but isn’t too aggressive. Simple flavors tend to rule for both food and spirits. You’d never want a squash that tastes like a zucchini. You want great ingredients that are well defined. It’s imperative to what we do both in the kitchen and behind the bar that the quality of the ingredients we use are well crafted and very well defined. This allows us to build well-defined cuisine and cocktails upon solid ingredients—it gives our cuisine and cocktails an identity that is not hollow or shallow. B.A.: How does the flavor of whiskey inspire your creation? Rice: There are no two whiskies that have the same flavor profile. When I taste bourbon, I pick up on floral, fruit, spices, caramel, vanilla and oak. As the layers of flavor build on my palate and leave a lingering and beautiful finish, my mind starts turning. When building cocktails with bourbon, the most important thing is that the cocktail is created to focus on the whiskey, not to hide it. Lewellyn: Cooking with whiskey is the easiest way to destroy it. Even simple flavors when heated with whiskey have a tendency to run over the floral qualities. Cooking removes the heat and masks the majority of the caramel. Spirits are too delicate to handle high temperatures and not become bitter or muted. Sure, they do add earthy caramel accents to food, but there are other more non-intrusive ways to do this without ruining our heritage. Drink the bourbon; leave the cannoli. However, we have been experimenting with bitters as flavor agents to cold dishes (greens and raw protein applications), similar to crafting mini cocktails for the food to finish them before service. It’s working nicely. It’s weird, but I’ve been getting used to Larry being weird for years. B.A.: Who has inspired you in mixology and cooking? Rice: Jerry Thomas, for being the first bartender to pen a recipe book and share his ideas with others in the profession. He left behind a history book that allows us to gain insight into the birth of the American cocktail. William Schmidt, for car- rying the torch and taking the creations to the next level; he was definitely a mad scientist. I’ve recreated the majority of his recipes, and some were brilliant, but some not so much. I always refer to his creations as walking a tightrope without a net; one wrong step and it’s a disaster. Keep everything in balance and it will be a moment of genius. Of those still living, I’d say Dale DeGroff, David Wondrich, Toby Maloney, Mike Ruble and Stephen Cole. All play a part in the resurgence of serious, technically-crafted cocktails. I’m also inspired by the new generation, what’s going on all over the country and the love and passion going into the education and respect for our trade. Lewellyn: I’m French-trained, so of course I have a passion for the classics. And not to sound elitist, but Social has made me stop looking for influences outside of what I have going on in-house. My staff has been with me so long that I relish in watching them use skills I learned coming up the ranks. The only influence I need I get from Larry and our staff, but there are a couple of places I really enjoy checking in on. Mark Fuller at Spring Hill [in Seattle]—much respect. Prime Meats in Brooklyn, for obvious reasons, I guess. Sean Brock at McCrady’s [in Charleston, SC]—I can’t say enough great about every experience I’ve had there. B.A.: Larry, you are a superstar when it comes to reinventing classic whiskey cocktails. What are your guidelines? Rice: When building a bourbon cocktail, my number one guideline is to show- case the bourbon itself. I insist on classic techniques and using the highest-quality products. The flavor profiles must be layered, interesting, balanced and evolving— and of course, the finish should leave you wanting more. B.A.: Which whiskey Master Distiller, living or not, would you most like to serve and why? Rice: Booker Noe. Bernie Luber of Knob Creek told me this story. When all the january–february 201 1 / the tasting panel / 29 “We share the same reverence for a complete dining experience.” “The curve ball has been creating a menu that balances the bar and kitchen, but isn’t too aggressive.”