Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/205467
THE MASTER Gustavo Ortega Zeller: Brugal Rum Dominican rums are distinguished by a pedigree unlike any other. On his second voyage to the New World in 1493, Columbus waded ashore on the island of Hispaniola—present day Dominican Republic and Haiti—carrying sugarcane from the Canary Islands. The grass-like plants flourished in the tropical environment and soon covered huge expanses of the island. Now, centuries later, that same sugarcane constitutes the very heart and soul of Brugal Rum. The acclaimed line of rums is column-distilled from high-grade molasses and fresh water at the company's state of the art facility in San Pedro de Macoris. After distillation, the clear, light-bodied spirit is moved to Puerta Plata, on the northern coast of the island, where it's placed into American white oak barrels for aging. Casks stacked end-to-end six-high completely fill the cavernous, century-old warehouses. "I think two things make Brugal so unique and special," says master rum maker Gustavo Ortega Zeller, direct descendant of the brand's founder, Don Andres Brugal. "The first is a distillation process that removes much of what other rums leave in for a cleaner, drier spirit that is less sweet on the nose and tongue. The second is an investment in exclusively caskaging all of our product. Although costly, it's the only way to impart the wood character and smoothness that comes through in every glass." Zeller adds that the combination of the island's soil, water and climate imprints the fresh cane with an indelible "sense of place," a genetic fingerprint and mark of distinction that will forever link Brugal to its appellation. RÉMY COINTREAU USA E verything that you might have heard about rum being the next hot spirit is true. In the past five years, its sales have significantly cut into what once seemed like vodka's seemingly insurmountable lead. The category now accounts for 13.2% of all distilled spirits sold in the U.S, this according to the 2012 Technomics Adult Beverage Report. "Rum is the bestselling spirit in the world. Its resurgence in the States can partially be explained by its appealing taste, tropical breeding and broad range of styles—from clear and light-bodied to dark and full-flavored," says Roberto Serrallés, Vice President of Business Development at Destilería Serrallés in Puerto Rico, maker of Don Q Rum. "Equally attractive is that old barrel-aged rums are surprisingly inexpensive. Spirits mature faster in the heat and humidity of Central America and the Caribbean. As a result, añejo rums typically cost about half of what a comparably aged whiskey or alembic brandy would command." Another propelling force behind rum's climb to stardom, opines Serrallés, is that American consumers are becoming more discerning and better appreciate the nuances between the different appellations and quality factors such as methods of distillation, water source, sustainability and aging styles. Rum is also an exceptionally mixable spirit, equaling vodka in that respect. But unlike vodka, rum has an alluring taste that lifts it head and shoulders above other light liquors. In most cocktails, vodka adds little to the appreciation of the drink. Rum is nearly always a primary flavor that contributes greatly to a drink. According to Dave Otis, maker of new Kahakai Tiki Rum, the tiki revival is a perfect example of rum's ability to engage the collective imagination. "Tiki drinks are joyful concoctions. They were wildly popular in the 1930s and 1940s as standard features at Polynesian restaurants and South Pacific–themed bars. Fortunately, these tall kitschy treats have returned to the limelight. That these drinks are predicated on rum will serve only to fan their popularity. Classically structured tiki recipes often call for a wide assortment of rum types, underscoring their island upbringings and inseparable connec- 104 / the tasting panel / november 2013 TP1113_066-107.indd 104 10/24/13 9:25 AM