Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/164544
PHOTO: JOE BROOKS Seasons 52 is a perfect partner, boasting an award-winning wine program with more than 100 selections and more than 60 by-the-glass offerings. Jolie Saison will fall under the "Drink Them Before They're Famous" category—a popular list, subject to the scrutiny of Miliotes' Master Somm credentials. The goal is to have a Gamay on the list everyone is asking for, one that is easy to comprehend and that will serve as a gateway to other Beaujolais wines like the famous Beaujolais crus—wines that elevate food. A Radical Departure The chance to produce such a wine with the Duboeufs, the foremost experts on the Beaujolais region and the Gamay grape, who have access to impressive small plot vineyards of old, untrained vines growing on the hillsides or slopes of prestigious Beaujolais vineyards where only hand harvesting is possible was a no-brainer for Miliotes. "Our Beaujolais wines are about capturing the quintessence of Gamay, of the terroir and always the savoir-faire of the vigneron," says the venerable Georges Duboeuf. The Deutsch family is responsible for connecting Franck and Georges Duboeuf with George Miliotes. The Duboeufs invited Miliotes to France, and after briefly meeting for the first time, settled right down to business. There were 90+ wines to be tasted for the final blend, and if palates aligned, all would go smoothly. Miliotes proudly recalls the morning. "I happened to like the exact three wines Georges liked. It wasn't exactly a test, but it got us off on the right foot." For the Duboeufs and Miliotes, Jolie Saison's focus is entirely on the expression of the Gamay grape as opposed to the expression of one single growing area—a radical departure from French tradition. Gamay from three growing regions—Ardèche (25%), Comté Tolosan (50%) and two Beaujolais Crus (25%)—comprise the final blend. "The Gamay from Ardèche brings color and mid-palate and really helps make this wine very distinct. Flesh and more color, fruitiness and mouthfeel comes from Comté Tolosan site, and the complexity and bones comes from the Beaujolais cru sites," Master Sommelier George Miliotes (left), Director of Beverage and Hospitality for Seasons 52 and The Capital Grille, with the venerable Georges Duboeuf. says Miliotes, reflecting that much conversation and attention to detail was considered in making Jolie Saison. For patrons of the Seasons 52 restaurant, the exploration of a newfound old friend under a new light will resonate purely on the palate, and one thing the Duboeufs, Deutsch and Miliotes all swear by is Gamay's ability to pair beautifully with an array of foods. "Salmon, quail and filet—Jolie Saison pairs exceptionally well with all three and there is very little red wine that can be as versatile," says Miliotes. The potential for Jolie Saison is huge, as are the expectations for its success. "We have high expectations for this wine, and are confident that consumers will fall in love with it just as we have," said Deutsch. "We anticipate high demand and plan to expand into off-premise to meet consumer needs fairly quickly." In the future, will patrons steer from their comfort zone, and ask for a "Gamay" over a bottle of "Pinot Noir," or "Cabernet Sauvignon?" That answer depends entirely on the wine, which in this case will most certainly speak for itself. 100 / the tasting panel / september 2013 TP0913_063-103.indd 100 8/23/13 10:22 AM