Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/1531371
something we had to adjust to. And most of the zippers back then were metal, not nylon. We drove our shoppers mad trying to find dainty metal zippers in the colors we needed. We studied the vintage garments that the shoppers brought back, looking for common techniques and details to develop a good understanding of what was being done at the time, so we could mimic it." Another challenge that Keiser found in the process of manufacturing costumes for this production was that "most of these vintage gowns are made with the most exquisite, delicate fabrics that require very careful handling and techniques. But, as we all know, TV production doesn't usually allow time for that kind of thing. We figured out a few ways to simplify the way we assemble and finish the edges of silk chiffon, for instance. That saved us loads of time over the course of the season, without sacrificing quality. Without those techniques, we would still be hemming those gowns to this day!" Keiser told us that the base of many of their gowns were 4-ply silk crepes. "The beaded and feathered fabrics are fabulous, but most of them are draped over the most sumptuous 4-ply silk crepes, which are my all-time favorite. Four-ply has the most beautiful drape, and comes in the richest colors, but what sets this fabric apart is its weight. It has a gentle he to it that just feels like a glamorous hug when you wear it, and working with it is such a treat." When asked about which costume was her favorite to make, Keiser said Evelyn's cornflower blue chiffon gown that she wears in Episode 2 to Mary's Fibrosis Benefit Auction holds a special place in her heart. "Allison Janney looks great in everything our shoppers could find for her, but she is tall, so finding perfect vintage pieces that were long enough for her was tricky. As a result, we got to build most of her pieces from scratch, and this one was my favorite. We harvested this glorious bejeweled collar piece and matching cuffs from another vintage dress, and built this ethereal chiffon gown to hang from it, out of about 25 yards of silk chiffon. Ten vertical French seams around the body, and a 20-yard circumference around the hemline to stitch. The side seams had slits wide enough to fit the belt through, so the belt only cinched the front of the dress, and the back hung free. It was lined with a matching silk charmeuse, cut on the bias, for a sleek, comfortable fit. I liked it so much, I made a similar one for myself this year!" (Top to bottom) Starfish Dancer Nichole Weber in Norma flashback of Beach Ball gala; last-minute repairs of Starfish Dancer costume with Gus Delgado, Valerie Keiser; Valerie Keiser, Gus Delgado, and Brent Bruin working on Maxine's cape. 20 SPRING 2025