Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/1524900
42 • THE ARTISAN FALL 2024 common in many lipsticks, including Lipglass (MAC). Meeting up in London with Paul Merchant, the global head of make-up at Kryolan, he was able to tell me about the creative process of Kryolan's newest lipstick: Velvet Kiss. ey made a subtle shi from their traditional lipsticks (a powdery, cherry, vanilla scent) to a very faint ginger flavor/scent, using trace amounts of citrus and clove oils. e result is unigender, so and imperceptibly refreshing. No cough medicine vibes here! is illustrates the 'no perfume-perfume' trend, which leads to the next question: VBL: Is there a rising minimalist approach to fragrances, including those in cosmetics, in order to suit more consumers? G: I'm thinking here of people who are sensitive to natural or synthetic agrances, notably in movie make-up trailers, or in the theater. Unisex agrances are a key directive, as is the largest growing market for men's skin care. Also, the world is full of room agrances... It's very rare to have a life without perfume! e industry is constantly evolving in new captives and raw materials to be used in agrance creations, with great emphasis on biodegradability, naturality, and product safety. e industry is driving toward a more targeted approach versus wider consumer preferences. Such insightful considerations align with what we are observing in our industry, one that handles multiple products regularly. It is is last comment is particularly interesting. Such subliminal prompts be can seen in the likes of R+Co hair care—the Atlantis moisturizing range with an 'aquatic' fragrance, and a buttery sweet scent for Shea butter products. VBL: How are fragrances selected for cosmetic products by product i.e., make-up, hair, and skin products, by brand and by demographic target? G: All three aspects will be taken into consideration when briefing perfumers and the creative teams, because the agrance will be part of the brand signature. At the same time, each category has its specific characteristics & formulation. We cannot forget that a agrance is just one of the many ingredients which will be added to a full product formulation. e formula targeted for a high-end skin care for females over 50 in one country, and a mass market shampoo for teens in another, will be completely different—just to give an example. Fragrance helps enormously to define customer preference, in other words, it helps to sell the product! Flavors vs Fragrance Products used around or on the lips will contain flavors over fragrances. If you've ever accidentally tasted perfume, you will know why that is. Many fragrance houses also create flavors, including Givaudan. Flavor has a scent itself, and our brain receives taste through 80% olfactory stimulus. A great example of this is vanilla, Givaudan Lobby