Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/142283
PHOTO COURTESY OF LUKE LAMBERT WINES Luke Lambert of Luke Lambert Wines, with his dog Murray. Luke Lambert Wines: Luke Lambert Luke Lambert grew up in Brisbane, Queensland, far from any key wine regions, but his parents were aficionados and from a young age took him on trips to wine regions and wineries. "Wine was always on the table at dinner, and as I got older I started to take an interest," says Lambert. After school, Lambert spent time in Europe, where his interest in French and Italian wine grew to such an extent that he decided to enrol and complete a wine science degree just before starting his own label in 2004. He worked for a number of different wineries in Australia, New Zealand and Italy. "It was a very fast, intense education in how to make wine, and sometimes how not to." Today, Lambert produces about 2,500 cases of mostly Syrah and Nebbiolo wines that might be considered renegade in style, of the naturalleaning ilk made by the likes of Abe Schoener and Frank Cornelissen. "There is a real rawness in those wines, but such beauty," says Lambert. "I make a very different style of wine from the vast majority of wine produced in Australia. I believe wine should have low-moderate alcohol levels, not be driven by oak flavor, not be fined or filtered. It should rely on its own tannin from the grape skin and the acidity in the wine should be solely from what was squeezed out of the berry. All these parameters are essential to make interesting, layered wine full of life that shows where it's from." As for picking grapes, "Machine harvesting is good for nothing," Lambert says, which seemed like an obvious response to a question that really sets up the notion of departure from the massive, overproduced wines Americans tend to associate with Australia. Ask the Educator THE TASTING PANEL wanted to know what the leading Australian wine educators had to say, so we invited Tim Wildman, MW, a WSET Diploma lecturer based in London to offer his insight. Wildman specialized in Australian wines, and we're happy to share his thoughts on the state of the Australian wine industry, along with a few picks, here. As a Master of Wine, I try and avoid generalizations; the world of wine is a complex place. But as a wine lover and passionate drinker, I'm going to make one anyway, so here goes: Australia is the most exciting country in the world of wine right now. Why do I think that? Because a single bottle of real Australian wine can change someone's perceptions of that entire country. Never has such a major wine producing country as Australia, in such a major market as the U.S., been so misunderstood by so many. Fine Australian wine—by that I mean regional, artisan, terroir-driven and food friendly—has been squeezed between [ yellowtail ] at one end, and high-octane fruit bombs at the other. Imagine if France was represented by just Beaujolais Nouveau and First Growth Bordeaux, with no Rhône, Loire, Burgundy or Champagne. Impossible, of course! But that's the reality of the image of Australian wine in many parts of the States today. My company, James Busby Travel, takes groups of wine trade buyers on annual educational trips to Australia. The following comment is typical of feedback we receive from visitors from the U.S. market: " Any concept I previously held of a simple summation of Australian wine has been ripped to shreds. " If real Australian wine is still a closed book to you, then here's my pick of six of the best wines to delight your palate and rock your world. Tahbilk 2007Museum Release Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes, Victoria ($21.99) Unoaked, textural, complex; insane quality for the money. EPIC WINES Yangarra 2011 Old Vine Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia ($25) Fine and perfumed expression of Grenache on sand. MAJESTIC FINE WINES Tyrrell's 2005/07 VAT 1 Semillon, Hunter Valley, New South Wales ($60) Unoaked, low alcohol, waxy, multidimensional; truly unique bottle aged style. DEUTSCH FAMILY WINE & SPIRITS Luke Lambert 2010 Syrah, Yarra Valley, Victoria ($70) Detailed, ethereal; a profound example of the modern cool climate style. EPICUREAN WINES Jasper Hill 2010 "Georgia's Paddock" Shiraz, Heathcote, Victoria ($90) Powerful yet savory, from ancient red Cambrian soils; one of Australia's best. OLD BRIDGE CELLARS Bindi "Quartz" Chardonnay, Macedon Ranges, Victoria ($125) Finely wrought, mineral-etched, world class Chardonnay. VINE STREET IMPORTS july 2013 / the tasting panel / 59 TP0713_034-65.indd 59 6/24/13 5:41 PM