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August/September 2019 21 The RCGS Resolute At the moment, One Ocean is a very small cruise line, operating all their expeditions on one ship, the RCGS Resolute. The ship carries 146 passengers and combines ice-breaking capabilities and scientific research gear with amenities like a jacuzzi, spacious cabins, multiple bars, a massage room, and a tidy, well-equipped gym. Like any self-respecting expedition cruise, entertainment skews educational — think talks on whales and history, rather than Vegas musical reviews. One afternoon the staff ran a lively auction to raise money for ocean charities. On our voyage, Andrée and Claudie Mackula-Thériault, two sisters from Prince Edward Island, provided a soundtrack of fiddle and acoustic guitar. Guests can eat a multi-course meal in the dining room or help themselves to a buffet in the more casual bistro. The chef includes vegetarian selections at every meal and prepares vegan dishes upon request. Itinerary and Activities One Ocean offers two Eastern Canada cruises: the 10-night Fins and Fiddles, and the 7-night Fiddles and Sticks. Fins and Fiddles focuses on outdoor adventure and culture; Fiddles and Sticks on golf, with alternative activities for non-golfers. Through some logistical mishaps, I wound up on the golf itinerary. But as a non-golfer, I was in good company. About 15 women on my voyage chose the adventure track over golfing. Most of the expedition guides were also female. So, it turned into a week of outdoor girl power, bouncing over the sea on Zodiac boats, kayaking against the wind, hiking national parks, riding bikes, and managing to get half a dozen lobster buoys hooked on the fin of my stand-up paddle board. One of the main tenets of expedition cruising is that the itinerary may change based on conditions. A flexible guest is a happy guest. Things can shift suddenly — the water might be too choppy or shark-filled for an intend- ed kayak outing, or a permitting issue could mean visiting a whole different port. For ex- ample, instead of seeing Quebec's Magdalen Islands as planned, Continued on next page Opposite top: Kayaking off Magdelan Island; Opposite bottom: The RCGS Resolute; This page from top: Passengers arrive; A wild horse on Sable Island; Music on the docks; Golfing on a seaside course; A view from the Franey Trail by Ingonish. "Sable Island is really special to a lot of people. It has kind of a magic and mystery to it that people want to make sure it's protected." — Alannah Phillips, Park Manager of Sable Island National Park Reserve All photos Courtesy of One Ocean Expeditions except bottom right: Teresa Bergen