The Tasting Panel magazine

March 2013

Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/113109

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 145 of 148

PHOTO COURTESY OF CVI.CHE 105. Passionate Peruvian: Chef Juan Chipoco of CVI.CHE 105. PHOTO COURTESY OF ZUMA milk) in his ceviche org��a de mariscos��� his seafood orgy. Forget sushi���this is the way to eat your ish. Though it���s tempting to dream of a restaurant built around nothing but sugar, that���s not what���s going on at Sugarcane Raw Bar Grill, where the menu rambles from the raw bar with its many crudos, to tapas, robata, sashimi, nigiri sushi and many sushi rolls. But if there are dishes that totally deine the eclectic cooking style of this Downtown Miami destination, they���d have to run to the crispy chicken necks, lavored with sea salt; the highly spiced crunchy pig���s ears; the duck leg conit on a wafle; and the sushi roll illed with eel and coconut ���dishes that very possibly only exist in Miami, and very possibly only exist at Sugarcane. Sweet! And speaking of sushi rolls, no consideration of the Restaurants That Matter in Miami would be complete without Zuma, the sushi and izakaya eatery, where you can feast on rolls of prawn tempura with freshwater eel and avocado, and spicy yellowtail with serrano peppers and wasabi mayonnaise. The cutting edge design of the space is by Noriyoshi Muramatsu of Tokyo���s Studio Glitt. The look is as modern as the food. And the food is as modern as . . . Miami. march 2013 / the tasting panel / 141 PHOTO COURTESY OF TUYO PHOTO: COURTESY OF SAMBA BRANDS MANAGEMENT Van Aken���s latest restaurant, Tuyo, sits at the top of Miami Dade College���s Miami Culinary Institute, with a world-class view of the skyline and Biscayne Bay; it���s as if you���re loating over Miami, which in a way, you are. The food continues Van Aken���s love of New World Fusion, using vegetables grown in the Institute���s own organic garden to create dishes like triggerish tiradito with passion fruit dressing, African adobo rubbed tuna on avocado crema, Key West yellowtail with citrus butter and Malabar spinach and pan-roasted swordish with heirloom farro. Years ago, when Van Aken tried expanding to West Hollywood, he failed. His cooking is Miami���irst and foremost. Chef Juan Chipoco calls the cooking at his CVI.CHE 105 ���Passionate Peruvian Cuisine.��� But it���s so much more than that. This Andean in Downtown Miami is home to some of the best ceviche in America���or for that matter, in the Americas. His ceviche isn���t just ceviche, it���s a regional creation, with ceviche preparations from Pucusana, Puerto de Anc��n, done in the style of the Peruvian lag (red and white, or rojiblanco), in the Peruvian liqueur called pisco ���and in, of all things, leche de tigre (tiger���s Key West yellowtail with citrus butter and Malabar spinach at Tuyo.

Articles in this issue

Archives of this issue

view archives of The Tasting Panel magazine - March 2013