Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/1025306
66 / the tasting panel / september 2018 Mother 2017 Rosé, California ($15) You wouldn't expect a snarling wolf on a label embla- zoned with the name "Mother," as this bad-boy rosé probably isn't a mama's boy. On the nose, perfumed rose petals smeared with cherry make this wine more inviting than fierce, while the crisp acidity and cranberry-and cherry-tinged minerality have a mouthwatering effect. Its "tough love" byline on the back label, which refers to the wine being "crushed, fermented, and raised in the California wilds," proves it's one mother of a ride. 91 SPIRITS Padre Azul Silver Tequila, Mexico ($55) Tied up in what looks like a leather bottle vest as part of its intriguingly dramatic packaging, this tequila opens with aromas of vanilla and fresh agave with a touch of salinity. It glides across the tongue with nary a bite—but perhaps a dot of white pepper—to morph into a creamy, lime-kissed beauty. 93 Tequila Sin Rival Silver, Mexico ($37) This spirit features a pungent nose of cooked agave and fresh lime with a palate sweetened by marshmallow and mocha. The agave freshness shows through and contributes an earthiness to the finish. 92 CORAZON AZUL SPIRITS Chute Eight American Whiskey, USA ($35) An essence of orange peel, stone fruit, and brown sugar perfumes the air, and before the spirit's flavors even register, a satiny sensa- tion preps the palate for high-toned peach notes. Mellow and approachable hints of dried mango and oatmeal emerge on the graceful finish. 93 ROSE CITY DISTILLING New Amsterdam No. 485 Gin, USA ($11) Juniper, pine, and coriander create a subtle perfume that simultaneously offers woodsy and salty tones. On the palate, chocolate mint aligns with lavender and grapefruit peel as the flavors broaden progressively toward the finish. Made in the USA, this spirit is thoroughly modern and sophisti- cated. 93 E. & J. GALLO La Pivón Vermouth Blanco, Spain ($29) This fantastically aromatic, 32-proof spirit is made in Madrid from locally sourced herbs and botanicals. Assertive notes of lemon blossom, cedar, Valencia orange peel, clove, and heather ring true on the nose and palate with vanilla entering midway. Lemon reigns on the finish with a burst of cinnamon. 94 3 BADGE MIXOLOGY Salish Sea Organic Maple Liqueur, USA ($36) At 39 proof, this handcrafted organic liqueur undergoes cold maceration; this process leaves some sediment in the bottle, which means the product is minimally filtered to ensure the highest quality possible. The maple aromatics are delicate and demure, yet they become more extroverted on the palate. Not cloying or sugary, the gracefully authentic thread of maple leaves behind a satis- fying dry finish. This is absolutely exquisite. 95 Burnside Goose Hollow RSV Garryana-Finished Small Batch Bourbon, USA ($39) With a nose of oatmeal, cedar, and toffee, this easy-drinking, 92-proof whiskey is produced in Portland and has an incredibly creamy mouthfeel (Garryana refers to a specific type of oak indigenous to Oregon). Delightful notes of burnt orange peel and pekoe tea lead to an astringent mid-palate that soon settles into a white-peppered, cinnamon-spiced cedar finish. 93 EASTSIDE DISTILLING OMAR Single Malt Bourbon- Type Whisky, Taiwan ($38) This spirit sends you to a garden with perfumed aromas of jasmine and ginger-caramel. On the palate, flavors of peach, melon, and hon- eyed orange peel are alluring. The lean, satiny, and sinewy 92-proof spirit goes grassy toward the finish with a green-pepper spice and a wave of salinity. 94 OMAR Single Malt Sherry- Type Whisky, Taiwan ($38) This single malt takes to the forest with scents of cinnamon, date nut bread, and nutmeg. Sandalwood and caramel apple interplay with savory, woodsy notes of porcini mushroom, orris root, sandalwood, and bergamot. The long finish is dotted with a salinity reminiscent of Himalayan sea salt and a sweet note of spearmint. 97 JCB Vodka, Burgundy ($125) With an expressive, feminine nose of blueberries, lavender, and vanilla bean, this charming spirit uses hand-harvested Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes from Jean-Charles Boisset's estate vineyards in Burgundy. After the varieties are fermented separately, the grapes are aged for six months in barrel before blending (they sit for two additional months for the flavors to meld). The result of this labor-intensive process is an exquisitely exotic vodka with flavors of summer roses, gardenia, and a continuous perfume on the nose and sumptuous palate. 100 Little Black Dress 2017 Rosé, California ($10) Created by Fetzer Winemaker Margaret Leonardi at the Mendocino winery, LBD is a wonderful wine to sip alone or paired with light fare. A value- driven release, it's accented on the nose with raspberry and plumeria flowers. Crisp acidity and a hint of minerality raise the bar for food-friendliness as white peach and pink grapefruit add a gemstone-like touch. 89 Best Value! creamy, + + PHOTO: JEREMY BALL