Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/1025306
september 2018 / the tasting panel / 65 Byron 2015 Julia's Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley ($40) This iconic vineyard has graced many bottles and certainly shows respect for the fruit in this savory red. Hints of portobello mushroom, tilled soil, and tart cherry seem reserved at first, but once the wine opens up, their aromas seem to sweeten the air. Earth-kissed red fruit, cranberry tea, and that familiar forest-floor effect chime in as the acidity keeps flavors bright. Black olive and balsamic contribute, but raspberry and cherry lead the way. 93 Sonoma-Loeb 2016 Sangiacomo Vineyard Fedrick Ranch Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($60) A silky, elegant Pinot, this wine intrigues the drinker with aromatics of earth, boysenberry, and butterscotch. On the palate, the mouthfeel is luxuriously creamy and accented with mocha, ripe blue/black berries, and a touch of heather. This hails from a label owned by the Chappellet family and is crafted by the dedicated, talented winemaker Phillip Corallo-Titus. 96 Tola 2016 Terre Siciliane Nero D'Avola, Sicily, Italy ($13) A fragrant nose of blackberry, currants, and mocha is indicative of ripeness and indulgence. The bright palate displays violets, toasted almonds, and black fruit seasoned with basil and thyme. Cedar soaks into the finish for a pleasant wash of flavor. 91 SNARKY & SPIRITED, LLC Levendi 2015 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($95) Juicy elements meld with teeth-coating tannins as dark chocolate and black beans intensify this wine's depth. Luscious, sun-drenched black fruit and savory Worcestershire sauce lead into a chewy finish. So much going on here! 96 Levendi 2015 Symphonia Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60) Select Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards from Napa Valley form the brass, strings, and woodwinds of Symphonia. On the nose, leather and black cherry dig deep as red-fruited notes exude juiciness on the palate, where they harmonize with a chorus of chalky tannins. Black tea, slate, cedar, and dark chocolate inter- play with mouthwatering plum underscored by a hum of black pepper. It finishes boldly and sweetly in perfect pitch. 93 Goldschmidt Vineyards 2014 Game Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa Valley ($89) Aromas of spiced cinnamon and cedar open up to a black violet/graphite texture and flavor profile with an underscore of intense blackberry and black plum. Smacking, dry tannins keep things in check as the wine opens up to a sensuously smoky, dark-chocolate finish. Aged 31 months in French oak. 94 Katherine Goldschmidt 2016 Crazy Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley ($23) Perfumed with tart blackberries and chocolate-covered raisins, the palate possesses silky tannins spotted with white pepper and enveloped in notes of plum, raspberry, and heather. 91 Viña Zaco 2015 Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain ($18) With lemon and a hint of flint on the nose, this wine features salty, lime-squeezed flavors softened by notes of lanolin and white flowers. It's both pretty and refined. 91 AVENÍU BRANDS Gehricke 2016 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($32) This white draws you in with its intensely sensual aromas of lemon/lime tart, jasmine, and chamomile. Mouth-filling flavors enter the light as this Chard shines with notes of pineapple upside- down cake, toffee, pear, and Rainier cherries. The beautiful acidity balances it all out: This is the best yet for Gehricke. 95 3 BADGE BEVERAGE Pellet Estate 2016 Un-Oaked Chardonnay, Sunchase Vineyard, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County ($42) From a site that's been producing wine grapes for more than 150 years comes this stunning unoaked Chardonnay (see the adjacent review of the oaked version) aged nine months in stainless steel and produced with extended lees stirring. The richness is there, as is depth and mineral-tinged complexity, while the nose picks up notes of pineapple and white flowers blooming out of the glass. Its lees-y vanilla-pudding body is sumptuous, and the acidity underscores it all with a crisp-melon and Asian-pear "crunchiness." Spiced jasmine continues to add aromatics on the finish. 95 Pellet Estate 2015 Chardonnay, Sunchase Vineyard, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County ($68) In producing this wine aged 16 months in new French oak, winemaker Tom Rinaldi demonstrates his ability to keep things from tasting toasty as he brings forth savory aromas of oregano, spearmint, and lime-charged pears and pineapples. The crème brûlée effect glides in mid-palate as lemon curd and brush develop at the finish. 95 PHOTO: ALEX RUBIN