Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/1013885
94 / the tasting panel / august 2018 rebuilt their lives in this foreign place, they made wine for—and eventually acquired—a kosher winery, and nearly 40 years later, the family moved their winemaking operation to California in 1985. Yet even then, the wandering contin- ued: The Herzogs jumped from winery to winery for another two decades before finally reaching their "promised land," opening a facility of their own in Oxnard in 2005. "The Jews wandered the desert for 40 years, and we were wandering in California for 20 years before we decided to build our home," Joseph quips. An Expression of Experience The newest addition to the Herzog portfolio, Lineage, serves as a cel- ebration of the family's unwavering commitment to wine. The label lists the names of seven generations of Herzog family members with the year of their birth and, if applicable, death, starting from 1750. "Lineage really is an indication of the winemaking, the wine, and the grape knowledge of the lineage of this family," says Herzog Winemaker Joe Hurliman. "You can see they really understand how you go about making quality wines and what it takes." Developing the Lineage line didn't come without risks. The portfolio hails from a small parcel of land the Herzogs acquired along with their Clarksburg property, Prince Vineyard. The site was planted with 12 Portuguese varieties, from Primitivo and Sangiovese to Viognier and Malbec, but with so few rows planted of each, it was impossible to sell the grapes or make single-vari- etal wines. The solution? Throw them all in together and "see what happens," says Hurliman. Enter Choreograph, the anchor of the Lineage brand: It could be called a happy accident, but the Herzogs do everything with intent. "A sample was given to me and it was one of those wines where you taste and smell it and go, 'Wow,'" Hurliman recalls. "That sort of gives you an indication of what you can do if you're a family that's been making wine for eight generations and understands this might be something of great value. Otherwise, maybe we would have just chopped the top of the vines off and grafted it right then and there." Lineage's other five wines are crafted from carefully chosen vineyards, each with its own story and significance to the Herzogs. For instance, the family has been sourcing Chardonnay from Prince Vineyard since they first started produc- ing in California 33 years ago. After purchasing it in 2010, they now grow the fruit for Lineage Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Rosé, and Choreograph there. Meanwhile, a recently purchased vineyard in Lake County has both Herzog and Hurliman particularly excited, as it's planted to Sauvignon Blanc's Musqué clone. Their first vintage, 2017, was released earlier this year. "I always wanted to make a Sauvignon Blanc from the Musqué clone—you're looking at a totally different wine, different entity. It's reminiscent of Austrian Sauvignon Blancs that I've had," says Hurliman, noting that the Lineage line also provides a preview of what the future holds for the Herzog legacy. "It's not a conclusion, but it's a continuation of what the Herzogs have been able to do for eight generations." "There's a lot of great wine being made in California–a lot of great winemakers and great stories–but eight generations in wine? We don't think that exists." – Joseph Herzog The Herzog family can trace their winemaking roots back eight generations to Slovakia during the early 19th century. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE HERZOG FAMILY