Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/1013885
90 / the tasting panel / august 2018 only imagine how challenging it was for Stone and his Executive Chef, Justin Hilbert, to create 120 unique dishes each year. In late 2017, Stone and Hilbert decided to completely change Maude's format, doing away with the monthly menus to instead focus on a specific wine region every quarter. In an effort to explore the cuisine and wine of these selected regions while showcasing the synergy that's developed between both mediums, they first settled on a deep dive of Rioja in northern Spain. In preparation, Stone, Hilbert, sommelier Andrey Tolmachyov, and Director of Operations Ben Aviram traveled to Rioja in November to get a firsthand feel for the region, its wine, and its food. A few days after they returned, I sat down with Tolmachyov, Aviram, and Hilbert to taste through roughly 40 Rioja wines, most of which they encountered on their trip. We met in Stone's West Hollywood restaurant Gwen, opened in partnership with his brother Luke and named this time for their maternal grandmother. Rioja wines exist on a very narrow spectrum. The whites are mainly made from the Viura variety, which produces crisp, aromatic wines. The reds are, by law, all Tempranillo, resulting in racy, complex wines similar to Cabernet Sauvignon yet leaner and crisper. Despite their similar provenance, subtle differ- ences can be detected between individual wines which are often determined by vintage as well as winemaking style. Through this tasting, we set out to explore those differences while simultaneously giving Chef Hilbert PHOTO: RAY KACHATORIAN The wine team at Maude, pictured clockwise from top left: Head Sommelier Andrey Tolmachyov, Director of Operations Ben Aviram, and owner Curtis Stone. Fahara Zamorano (bottom left) is the Sommelier at sister restaurant Gwen. For those interested in a serious and skillfully rendered impression of a specific wine region featuring a menu of carefully curated dishes, it's recommended to make a reservation well in advance.