Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/1013885
august 2018 / the tasting panel / 75 beverage. With more than 11 million bottles of Pineau sold each year, the vin de liqueur's status in the U.S. market begs the question: Why isn't Pineau more well-known despite being a highly sought-after apéritif in France? The short answer, Harden said, is that "unlike Cognac, which is mostly exported, Pineau for the longest time was not." Thankfully, Pineau's fortunes stateside are shifting, largely because technological advances have helped produce vin de liqueur of a higher caliber than has ever been produced. "Chilled harvest vats ensure grapes don't begin to ferment at the begin- ning of the process and also allow for longer maceration of red grapes, which yields true red and rosé Pineaus," Harden explained. The influence of technology has been most apparent in the aging process. Pineau were historically cellared at or below the water table so barrels could be rolled directly from the cellar onto a boat for transport, but these damp cellars were often plagued with black mold—creating a slow and expensive aging process. Today, however, mod- ernized equipment enables workers to move and store barrels with relative ease, meaning they're no longer relegated to the musty cellars of the past. "Pineau production today looks more like the warehouses in whisky country, where barrels are aged on hilltops with fresh wind circulation and diurnal shifts," Harden said. Though some Pineaus are still cellared and blended, improved warehouse technol- ogy has given producers more options than ever before. Harden has also seen firsthand that tastes in the U.S. are changing. "The American market can shift with aston- ishing speed to accommodate trends," he said, citing the recent rejuvenation of vermouth and amaro after bartend- ers embraced the categories as cocktail ingredients. American palates can also be less partial to sweetness than their European counterparts, but as Harden was quick to point out, Pineau isn't inherently sweet: "Rather, it's a bal- anced combination of the natural sugar of grapes picked at exceptionally high acidity and low sugars, stabilized with eau-de-vie for structure and power and matured in oak following the same processes of fine whisky and brandy," he added. And regarding the ever-elusive answer to that "Why now?" question, Harden is quick to capture the reason Pineau might be on the precipice of a new phase of discovery. "The growing appreciation of more complex flavors and aromas and the incredible creative surge of mixologists and sommeliers introducing new combinations makes now the perfect time to gain greater recognition for Pineau in an eager population," he said. With that, Harden left the door open for attendees to go forth and uncover the secrets of Pineau's illustrious past in their own establishments. How to Drink Pineau While older expressions of Pineau make great digestifs, the category has historically been consumed as an apéritif wine. In the modern market, how- ever, it's found considerable traction as an informing ingredient in cocktails as it can impart both flavor and structure to low-ABV drinks. "Pineau has intriguing, unique aromas and flavors that can be served neat or chilled before, during, or after a meal; as a cocktail with both sweet and savory flavors; or as a perfect companion to foie gras, pâté, salumi, oysters, caramel, chocolate, and many cheeses," Pineau des Charentes ambassador Hoke Harden says. P&T (Pineau and Tonic) ◗ 1½ oz. Cognac Park Jeune Blanc Pineau ◗ 1 oz. Fever-Tree tonic water Add Pineau to a rocks glass over ice. Add tonic water and stir once to integrate. Garnish with an expressed, manicured grapefruit twist and a fresh sprig of thyme. Martinelle ◗ 1 oz. Réviseur Vieux Blanc Pineau ◗ 1 oz. Plymouth Gin ◗ ½ oz. Dolin Génépy des Alpes liqueur ◗ 2 dashes absinthe ◗ 1 drop Bittermens Orange Cream Citrate Bitters Add all ingredients to a mixing glass and stir with ice until cold. Strain into a Nick and Nora glass and garnish with a manicured lemon.