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s p r i n g 2 0 1 8 | 3 3 Fresh robiola: Matured for four to five days; wrapped and seasoned for at least ten days to encourage the formation of natural molds. Barely any visible rind; a delicate, slightly acidic, sour, grassy, and fresh taste reminiscent of ricotta. Enjoy with: a fresh, bone-dry Sauvignon Blanc to comple- ment the cheese's acidity. Aged 2 weeks: Spicy, intense, musky flavor and firmer texture in a pale-yellow crust; milky white inside. Enjoy with: Gewürztra- miner or Pupillo Solacium, a Moscato Passito from Sicily. This aromatic white wine from Alsace that falls on the slightly sweeter side. Robiola in Leaves: Seasoned for three weeks and wrapped in either chestnut or fig leaves, depend- ing on what's in season—the cheese continues to mature and retains a distinct earthy flavor. Enjoy with: Matteo Correggia 2016 Roero Arneis DOCG Piedmont or a creamy chardonnay. Aged more than 3 months: Fatty, spicy, funky flavor, and firmness approach- ing feta. Enjoy with: Dr. Loosen Mosel Ürziger Würzgarten 2016 Riesling Spät- lese is a not-overly- sweet complement. After straining, animal rennet is added to the milk before acidification; coagulation then begins and continues for about 24 hours. Once placed inside plastic cylindrical molds, the curds drip whey and are turned over several times daily; the cheese is salted throughout the resting period and natural maturation begins. The final product will have a diameter of about six inches and a thickness of two inches while weighing ten ounces (regulations dictate acceptable diameter, height, and weight ranges of each round at the end of the minimum vesting period). "No one wanted to show us how to make the cheeses, so we had to figure it out our own way," Jerome Pfister explains. When asked whether or not he would share his family's trade secrets with a cheesemaker new to the area, he dryly replies, "Probably not." I couldn't fault him for that: The Robiola di Roccaverano D.O.P. aged two weeks won Best Cheese at the Grolla d'Oro Formaggi d'autore Golden Cup Signature Cheeses contest in Valle d'Aosta in 2008, out of nearly 200 cheeses from 16 regions throughout Italy. Robiola di Roccav- erano D.O.P. is best consumed within a few days of purchase, but can be kept for up to six months if preserved in oil—though we doubt a wheel will last you that long. Fresh Robiola di Roccaverano D.O.P. wrapped in chestnut leaves. Andrea Pfister has created artwork like this knife covered in ants with materials found on the family property in Mombaldone, located in Piedmont, Italy. Get Your Goat! These unforgettable goat's milk cheeses can be elevated even further through our wine-pairing suggestions. ■cr