Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/884376
DEPARTMENT HEADER 1 10 / the tasting panel / october 2017 "W ell, first things first: This is a red wine," I joked as we moved to the next wine. Bath pointed out the density in color. "Just by looking at it, we can eliminate several grape varieties and focus on a smaller number," he said. Many red wines are more transparent (Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, and Grenache, for example). As coaches, we also revealed that this wine was a blend. Many wines are, as only 75 percent of a varietal wine must be that dominant grape—but what grapes are consistently seen together in blends where no grape is named? Bordeaux varieties? Southern Rhône varieties? We moved on to discuss the ripe juiciness of the fruit; a backbone of acidity and tannin created a cradle for the ripeness, but the fruit character led. Perhaps we had finally shifted to the New World. THE REVEAL: J. Lohr 2013 Cuvée St. E, Paso Robles, CA 63% Cabernet Franc/25% Cabernet Sauvignon/8% Merlot/4% Malbec The J. Lohr 2013 Cuvée St. E is a Cabernet Franc–dominated blend. Cabernet Franc, a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon along with Sauvignon Blanc, tends to show more of a pyrazine element (green notes like bell peppers). With the ripeness in the New World, it can be harder to identify as pyrazine lessens with ripeness, but a distinct herbal note complemented this wine. Jerry Lohr planted his first vineyards in the Central Coast in the early 1970s. Now with 3,700 acres of estate vineyards, J. Lohr has become a celebrated brand known for quality wines with a wide price range. The J. Lohr 2013 Cuvée St. E is an homage to the illustrious wines of Saint- Émilion in Bordeaux. A s we shifted gears to this big, robust red,the mood at once turned jovial and competitive—with no credit given to the amplifying effects of the wines, I'm sure. We revisited the discussion of the spectrum of fruit in red wines: This wine showed red, blue, purple, and black fruit, and only a handful of grapes yield that combination. The wine showcased fruit, but offered structured tannins as well. What grape shows the spectrum of fruit but also exhibits high tannin? THE REVEAL: Opaque 2014 Zinfandel, Paso Robles, CA Zinfandel—California's "native" grape. Of course, Dr. Carole Meredith traced Zinfandel's roots to Croatia, but California certainly shows pride in its cultivation of the grape almost exclusively in the New World. With large, tight grape clusters, the berries do not all ripen at the same time. This establishes over-ripe and under-ripe aspects and imparts not only the full gamut of fruit flavors, but also yields a wine high in tannin. Opaque Zinfandel hails from Paso Robles and is a brand belonging to the Riboli family of San Antonio Winery, the oldest winery in Los Angeles proper. The family expanded to the Paso Robles area in the interest of increasing their fine wine portfolio and grape-growing opportunities. Opaque is a reference to the color and flavor density of the wine. Steve Peck, Red Winemaker for J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, described the J. Lohr 2013 Cuvée St. E of Paso Robles, CA. The Opaque 2014 Zinfandel from Paso Robles, CA.