Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/884376
october 2017 / the tasting panel / 109 A GAME OF WINES UNFOLDS AT THE SOCIETY OF WINE EDUCATORS ANNUAL CONFERENCE Allyson Gorsuch, Executive Wine Editor for The Tasting Panel, and Bob Bath, MS, "coached" the audience in a blind wine tasting compe- tition at the Society of Wine Educators Annual Conference in Portland. Keith Reese, District Manager Pacific Northwest at Santa Margherita USA, presented Kettmeir 2016 Pinot Grigio from the Alto Adige region of Italy. T urning to this uniquely-scented white, we began to apply our newly-learned techniques. We agreed that while it was expressive, it was not overtly aromatic. The fruit exhibited just-ripe citrus, orchard, and stone fruit, and there was a pronounced gravelly note. We began to discuss the importance of the condition of the fruit—how ripe it is—as this can hint to the warmth of the climate of origin as well. We then harkened back to the structure; the acidity was medium-plus. We also talked about the fruit being secondary, and leaned toward the wine as being from the Old World. What grape would fit this flavor and structure profile? Bath and I hinted this was a classic variety from a classic region. THE REVEAL: Kettmeir 2016 Pinot Grigio, Alto Adige, Italy For close to 100 years now, Kettmeir has been produc- ing wines from the hillsides above Lake Caldaro in the Alto Adige region of northern Italy. The varying elevations, combined with the influence of the lake and the dolomitic soils, enable the production of several grapes. The Pinot Grigio finds its home on mid- to low-tier vineyards on the west bank of the Adige river. The group was split roughly in half as far as who guessed the wine correctly. We talked about how far Pinot Grigio has come in the last decade: What used to be a wine often lacking in character can show a great deal of personality when produced with quality in mind. The Kettmeir 2016 Pinot Grigio offered pears and apricots with a citrus backbone, and it showed a pleasing weight on the palate to complement the bright acidity. The lesson in blind tasting here revealed itself in the deduc- tive process. Was it more expressive than we typically expect of Pinot Grigio? Perhaps, but it was certainly not an aromatic wine. In addition, it displayed just-ripe fruit and led with minerality; it had medium-plus acid but a textural element. By eliminating other grapes as options, we could arrive at the correct assumption of the grape and where it was produced.