The SOMM Journal

October / November 2016

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  103 Back out into the vineyards, we stand in the bottom of the Tempranillo plot basking in the warmth of the sunshine before heading to the top of the vineyard to feel the strong winds and the temperature difference that elevation ensures; in fact, the two sections of the vineyard can be picked a month a part. We visit a few rows of vines which were grafted over to Syrah and then back to Cabernet Sauvignon, another challenge. "We'll watch them over the next couple of years, and then we'll make an informed decision about what would be best to replant there," informs Ribbert. The vineyards are all treated organically, although the Merlot vineyard is the only one certified. A vertical tasting of the Arínzano red allows us a glimpse into Louzada's trajectory for the wine, and its improving quality annually. The earlier vin - tages—2000, 2001 and 2004—include about a third each of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot while the 2008 and 2010 focus solely on 100 percent Tempranillo. "With careful extraction, I think we get more polished tannins from the Tempranillo. That's always key for me. I think of tannins in four styles: Green tannins hit up front, and they will polymerize over time; firm tannins are my favorite as they add texture to the mid-palate and lift the fruit; sweet tannins typically come from carbonic and are light and delicate; dry tannins I try to avoid, as I think they don't disappear, and they come from over-extraction or crushing seeds or over-oak aging," explains Louzada. Raising the 2010, he says, "This is the kind of tannin I want." While each wine shows personality, and not one seems like a teenager, the group consensus supports the 100 percent Tempranillo, especially after tasting the stellar Tempranillo from barrel the previous evening. "You know, what you're doing now is great, learning and making the appropriate changes," confirms Dame. "I think these are gonna be just killer wines." Back in our festive gear, we enjoy another glorious, three-hour lunch at Enekorri Restaurant in Pamplona before attending the bullfighting in La Plaza. As six bulls meet their demise, the tradition and camaraderie of the arena infiltrates our small group. Fireworks from the preeminent patio followed by dancing, laughing and plentiful wine complete our authentic experience, something we acknowledge as singular to this trip. DAY THREE: Getting Down to Business before a Full Celebration Ensues PHOTO: COURTESY OF ARÍNZANO PHOTO: CHUCHI RUBIO PHOTO: CHUCHI RUBIO PHOTO: ALLYSON GORSUCH The Arínzano vineyards rely on the northerly winds—constant, cool and dry—coming off of the Atlantic. Hacienda de Arínzano 2015 Rosé of Tempranillo and jamón—a perfect pairing. Our three-liter bottle treat of Arínzano 2004 Gran Vino Red; 65 percent Tempranillo, 35 percent Merlot.

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